ISO Genesis 2000 LP Manifold, LP scale/holder and panel (converting NG to LP)


 
Yeah I can't wait to put this bad boy together. I'll show you the results. @Steve Hoch I almost have everything - the tank scale itself looks pretty grody. I have never really attempted to clean rust off of something before, and that looks rather intimidating
 

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Joe Imburgio said:
Yeah I can't wait to put this bad boy together. I'll show you the results. @Steve Hoch I almost have everything - the tank scale itself looks pretty grody. I have never really attempted to clean rust off of something before, and that looks rather intimidating
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That tank scale actually looks like it might be broken. It's easy enough to get the rust off if that's the main problem. When you get a chance, try to take it off the tank panel and take some better pictures of it so I can see what's going on with it.
 
Joe Imburgio said:
Yeah I can't wait to put this bad boy together. I'll show you the results. @Steve Hoch I almost have everything - the tank scale itself looks pretty grody. I have never really attempted to clean rust off of something before, and that looks rather intimidating
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Steve Hoch said:
That tank scale actually looks like it might be broken. It's easy enough to get the rust off if that's the main problem. When you get a chance, try to take it off the tank panel and take some better pictures of it so I can see what's going on with it.
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If that tank scale is broken, you can always just use a newer model one in its place (which you could pluck off another free-ish source grill). The bolt pattern is the same between those old style and the newer style
 
John-NY said:
If that tank scale is broken, you can always just use a newer model one in its place (which you could pluck off another free-ish source grill). The bolt pattern is the same between those old style and the newer style
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Absolutely if you're not concerned about it being period correct.
 
@Steve Hoch @DanHoo

Here's what I was able to extract from the haul. The mounting bracket seems fine. The scale itself is pretty shot. Is there a more specific angle or detail that would help assess whether it works?

As @John-NY suggests, maybe I can just swap in this more modern tank scale. I don't need it to be period correct down the the last detail, I kind of like a little Frankenstein and just based on zero knowledge, I assume it would be more accurate.

I liberated the manifold - one of the valves had a metal wire wrapped around it - is that anything important or just somehow got on there?

I also tried turning the valves - one moves freely, the middle one is very very stubborn and doesn't turn easily, and the last one took a couple turns but seems to be moving a little more easily now. Is there a safe way to lubricate those or loosen them up?

Also pictured is the propane regulator and hose. I guess I just have to run the soap and water test once I hook it up to a tank? Would prefer not to blow my house up, so if there's anything I can do to make sure it's safe I'm all ears.
 

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Joe Imburgio said:
also tried turning the valves - one moves freely, the middle one is very very stubborn and doesn't turn easily, and the last one took a couple turns but seems to be moving a little more easily now. Is there a safe way to lubricate those or loosen them up?
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What I do is put a few drops of WD-40 or something similar on all the valve stems. Let it soak in for at least a few hours and then work the valves until they aren't sticky anymore. Turn the manifold over to let any excess penetrant run back out of the valves. Then I wipe it off and use a brass wire wheel in my drill to polish the valves and stems to shiny and clean again. It works every time.
 
I'm not sure why there's a wire wrapped around that valve, but remove it and make sure it wasn't holding the valve together. Also remove the rubber washers and set aside until you're done working on the manifold.
 
It looks like the spring is intact inside the tank scale. It may be salvageable. You can spray the entire thing down with WD 40 and set it aside for the time being. The WD-40 will loosen up the rust.
 
Soak the knobs and igniter switches in a hot water solution of bleach and dishwasher detergent. It's the best way to get them clean again.
 
I have garage door lubricant - any reason not to use that instead of the wd40? My understanding is that's overused as a lubricant in general.

Steve Hoch said:
Soak the knobs and igniter switches in a hot water solution of bleach and dishwasher detergent. It's the best way to get them clean again.
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The knobs and igniter switch on the NG grill I plan to pick up this week look like they're in much better condition, I think I'm going to wait and see how they look in person. Should easily fit on the LP manifold, right?
 
Joe Imburgio said:
The knobs and igniter switch on the NG grill I plan to pick up this week look like they're in much better condition, I think I'm going to wait and see how they look in person. Should easily fit on the LP manifold, right?
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Yes, they are completely interchangeable. You're still going to want to clean them I'm sure and use whichever ones look the best.
 
Your BEST bet on the valves is to follow the write up to clean and lubricate them properly as outlined in a write up by Chris. NEVER just squirt oil in a valve you intend to have work properly for a long time. Yes it WILL free it up but, it's not the correct way. However sometimes thanks to corroded screws that refuse to come out or because you cannot get the manifold out (as what happened to my Wolf grill) you end up having no other way. But it's NOT the RIGHT way.
Not trying to begin a flame war here but it's always best to do the job correctly once. And know it's correct.
 
Would I be out of line to ask you to start a build thread in the gas grills forum? I know you have already started some here.
 
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