humidity controller question


 
The relay is rated 5 amps so you should be fine with a small ultrasonic type humidifier.
 
I bought one. I'll let you know if it can power my ultrasonic humidifier. The humidifier is more than large enough to be used in let's say a fridge.

If I remember correctly, "my" unit will support twice the amount of load than your 110 Volt unit, since the both units can handle 5 amps.
 
Last edited:
I looked up the manual and it looks like you have to hard wire the humidifier to it, but will work. Considering the price and I get to build it, I think I'm going to go for it. Especially, with your stamp of approval Geir.
 
So, what does the contoller go to? Here in the Philippines, I'd probably need a dehumidifier, since even way up on the mountain, we run 85 to 90 percent humidity most of the time. I don't plan on doing cured or fermented and aged sausages for awhile, but I will get to it eventually.
 
Steve_A (Tatoosh) said:
So, what does the contoller go to? Here in the Philippines, I'd probably need a dehumidifier, since even way up on the mountain, we run 85 to 90 percent humidity most of the time. I don't plan on doing cured or fermented and aged sausages for awhile, but I will get to it eventually.
Click to expand...

from what I can see of the wiring diagram, it gets hard wired to a humidifier and a power cord, or wired, in line, with the humidifier's cord.

The fact that it's digital, has variable histeresis, temp compensation, and considerably cheaper than the controller that is most often used makes up for the little but of work setting it up.

I might even wire it to a double plug outlet which will allow me to plug in a fan that can kick on at the same time as the humidifier. I just need to figure out if it can handle the load
 
j biesinger said:
I just need to figure out if it can handle the load
Click to expand...
Small computer fan plus small humidifier still not an issue. I would definitely fashion an enclosure of sorts incorporating the plug.
What are you planning for temp. control?
I'm considering this as it allows for both. In addition the relays are rated as 10AMP/250VAC which would translate to 20AMP/120VAC.
 
As long as it's one of the smaller ultrasonic humidifiers there shouldn't be any issues. The built in relay on the one Jeff is looking at is rated at 5 AMP/120VAC. That's 600 watts. You certainly could go the SSR route. However, because this controller only has a relay (mechanical) output and not an SSR output you would still have to set up a control signal (current) through the relay and then to the SSR. This would allow you to switch higher currents but your still using a mechanical relay albeit to switch a very small amount of power.
 
Last edited:
If I remember correctly, I read somewhere that because of the distance between the contacts in one of these controller, an SSR should be used.
Also, something about the constant switching being bad for the controller, but I know next to nothing about electronics.


~Martin
 
Good link. Just switching a low wattage humidifier, I'd probably give the controllers relay a chance: It's not a situation where its making a lot of cycles that often. If it burns out I'd replace the controller... The SSR, enclosure, etc. would probably end up costing more then the controller.
Been using a Johnson A419 to control the compresser in my second fridge for a couple of years. That has a much larger start up and break current and that uses (appropriately sized) relay as well without any issues.
 
hmmm, I wasn't expecting this can of worms. I guess if it doesn't work out long term, I'll only be out 30 bucks
 
No can of worms... Just different approaches and all good info. You should be fine with what you have in mind although I will inquire again; what are planning on doing about controlling temp?
 
Not fancy but works well and is basically plug and play. I like your choice better since it's blue... I bought this one and wired it up.
Any idea what humidifier your going to go with? One suggestion is to only use "distilled" (not just "bottled") water in it.
In my case my well water will render them useless in no time but even "public" water is sketchy depending on treatments, etc.
 
Maybe a stupid question, but why the need for a temperature controller? I understand that temperatures needs to be controlled, but is a normal mechanical thermostat too inaccurate to to the job?
 
Geir, The thermostats in most of our refrigerators are very inaccurate and more importantly don't allow for the warmer settings (10-15 c) desired for curing. Also, by using the external thermostat you can use a freezer (upright or chest) that might be even more efficient then just a regular refrigerator.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

 

Back
Top