help troubleshooting propane assist on performer


 
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TroyRedington

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greetings and salutations

i'm wrapping up the restoration of a red stainless performer.

I managed to get the propane tank refilled (a whopping $2, WOW)

I attempted to test out the gas assist yesterday, but couldn't get it to light.

As far as i can tell, there is no propane coming out of the burner tube in the kettle.

I need to narrow down the problem more. It's either the regulator, or the tank.

I opened the valve on the tank expecting to hear the gas or smell the gas, but I heard or smelt nothing. I'm a propane newb though.
 
Disconnect the hose from the end of the burner tube- use pliers or needle nose to undo the clip that holds it.

See if the nozzle on the end of the hose is dirty or clogged maybe try to clean it out anyway if it doesn't look clogged. While you have the hose off clean out the inside of the burner tube with some pipe cleaner or whatever you have that will fit inside and get rid of spider webs, charcoal dust etc.

Re-assemble and see if it lights, with the ignitor or match?
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tim M.:
Disconnect the hose from the end of the burner tube- use pliers or needle nose to undo the clip that holds it.

See if the nozzle on the end of the hose is dirty or clogged maybe try to clean it out anyway if it doesn't look clogged. While you have the hose off clean out the inside of the burner tube with some pipe cleaner or whatever you have that will fit inside and get rid of spider webs, charcoal dust etc.

Re-assemble and see if it lights, with the ignitor or match? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

i cleaned the burner tube and made sure it wasn't clogged. i also poked around the hose and the little metal end that clips into the tube. all SEEMS to be clear.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Forrest B:
This may be a dumb question Troy, but did you open the test valve right behind the regulator? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

yes, i tried it with that 2nd valve in both positions (wasn't sure which was open or not)
 
Modern propane equipment has safety features that prevent free flow if a hose ruptures or there is a bad leak. If you don't open up the valves in the correct order, you will trigger the safety feature and result in little or no gas flow. Last year I bought a gasser and was surprised when there was a significant propane release for a fraction of a second when I disconnected the tank. I found later that the valve knob was slipping on the valve stem and it was still open. Nevertheless, I transported home without further loss of propane. that's how positive that safety feature can be!

Start with all valves closed. Open the tank valve slowly and allow a few seconds for pressure to equalize. Next open the burner valve and try to light the burner. I would use a butane lighter just in case the spark igniter is not working properly. If you're not sure which way is closed on the burner valve, try the entire process assuming that closed is either position.

Because of the long hose between regulator and tank on the Q grills they tend to be particularly susceptible to tripping the safety. This is SOP for lighting them.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Hank B:
Modern propane equipment has safety features that prevent free flow if a hose ruptures or there is a bad leak. If you don't open up the valves in the correct order, you will trigger the safety feature and result in little or no gas flow. Last year I bought a gasser and was surprised when there was a significant propane release for a fraction of a second when I disconnected the tank. I found later that the valve knob was slipping on the valve stem and it was still open. Nevertheless, I transported home without further loss of propane. that's how positive that safety feature can be!

Start with all valves closed. Open the tank valve slowly and allow a few seconds for pressure to equalize. Next open the burner valve and try to light the burner. I would use a butane lighter just in case the spark igniter is not working properly. If you're not sure which way is closed on the burner valve, try the entire process assuming that closed is either position.

Because of the long hose between regulator and tank on the Q grills they tend to be particularly susceptible to tripping the safety. This is SOP for lighting them. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

thanks hank!

I tried doing it that way (both ways, since i wasn't sure which way the valve works).

However I still couldn't get it to light.
Is it possible that the regulator is bad?
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by TroyRedington:

I tried doing it that way (both ways, since i wasn't sure which way the valve works).

However I still couldn't get it to light.
Is it possible that the regulator is bad? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Entirely possible - or something else may be wrong. I just wanted to rule out this possibility before you started spending money on parts since the proper startup procedure is non-trivial.

Of course I should also suggest that you check the Weber site for the manual as it might provide other clues on how it's supposed to work.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by timothy:
Is that a Performer with the 5# tank? I thought those were almost impossible to get refilled cause of the 12yr rule and no OPD valve.

Tim </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

http://www.amazon.com/Manchest...id=1334587811&sr=8-1

Any outdated tank is going to be difficult to get refilled. New ones with the OPD device are still available but not cheap. And they would require an adapter or a newer regulator with a threaded connector.

Faced with this issue I'd probably upgrade to a new regulator and use a 20 lb tank. One fill would probably last a lifetime.
icon_wink.gif
 
20 lb tanks are fugly.

my 5lb is OPD and still has 2 years left before the refill place will supposedly stop filling it.

i'm pretty good as social manipulation, i'm not worried about some high school kid telling me he can't refill my tank because its old.
 
I ran into the same problem several years ago on my 2001 Performer. Tried everything to no avail. Finally, I inserted a needle in the brass orifice that the gas comes out...pretty small opening...even a safety pin was too big. Solved it. I've had to do that twice now.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Scott J:
I ran into the same problem several years ago on my 2001 Performer. Tried everything to no avail. Finally, I inserted a needle in the brass orifice that the gas comes out...pretty small opening...even a safety pin was too big. Solved it. I've had to do that twice now. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

On the tank itself, or on the hose end that goes into the burner tube?

I'm confirmed that the hose is clear of debris, as is the burner tube. I can even blow through the regulator.

I'm not convinced that gas is coming out of the tank though.
 
ok, got it figured out.

i'm retarded.

the quick connect adapter on the tank wasn't tightened far enough to engage the safety mechanism in the valve. I didn't even know there was one.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">my 5lb is OPD and still has 2 years left before the refill place will supposedly stop filling it. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

You can also get the tank re-certified.
 
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