Genesis Silver B restoration question


 

AndySo

TVWBB Member
I had the opportunity to restore a curb side Silver B which I believe is from the early 2000s? (thermometer on the side of the lid). I just completed putting everything back together with some modifications I thought I'd get some feedback on.

How do you protect the frame at the 4 corners where the cooking box rests? When I removed the cooking box to restore it, the frame was in generally pretty decent shape, except those 4 corners of the box where it contacts the frame at a "point" and has chipped through the paint into the metal and caused some rust. I cleaned up the rust with a wire wheel and repainted over with a few coats of high temp black and overcoated with an black enamel. Because it is a spot that contacts the cook box, I imagine it would get pretty warm so something soft like felt/rubber would just burn. How do you protect those points?

I managed to screw up a hubcap trying to remove a wheel so I can repaint the frame, so I just drilled a through hole through one end of the axle and secured the wheel in place with a cotter pin. This makes removing the wheel/axle in the future much easier IMO.

When I removed the lid sides, one side was studded on the interior, secured with those thin thread cutting speed nuts, the other side was secured with bolts which were far easier to remove. Getting those speed nuts back on was a PITA, in the future if I have to remove and reinstall that thing, its likely not going to hold anymore since the stud would've been messed up too much. What do you do then? Cut off the stud and drill a through hole for a bolt?

My grease tray was in "ok" shape (90% complete, no through holes), after I cleaned it up it looks like there were some deep scratches through the enamel and the metal had started rusting. I see those replacements are pretty pricey so I'm likely not going to replace it until it falls apart on me completely. Before I managed to read more on this forum, I did take a wire wheel to get rid of the rust and overpainted it with high temperature paint. Now I realize that was probably not the best idea since it probably won't stick to the enamel well, and it would technically be "interior" of the cooking box where it gets pretty warm. Since I've already painted it, I plan to wrap the thing in foil next time to keep any fumes trapped if it does off-gas for some reason. Is that a good idea or should I see about completely stripping the high temp paint?
 
I had the opportunity to restore a curb side Silver B which I believe is from the early 2000s? (thermometer on the side of the lid). I just completed putting everything back together with some modifications I thought I'd get some feedback on.

How do you protect the frame at the 4 corners where the cooking box rests? When I removed the cooking box to restore it, the frame was in generally pretty decent shape, except those 4 corners of the box where it contacts the frame at a "point" and has chipped through the paint into the metal and caused some rust. I cleaned up the rust with a wire wheel and repainted over with a few coats of high temp black and overcoated with an black enamel. Because it is a spot that contacts the cook box, I imagine it would get pretty warm so something soft like felt/rubber would just burn. How do you protect those points?
My thoughts are that if it was just surface rust, then don't sweat it. It lasted twenty years. Good for another 20.
I managed to screw up a hubcap trying to remove a wheel so I can repaint the frame, so I just drilled a through hole through one end of the axle and secured the wheel in place with a cotter pin. This makes removing the wheel/axle in the future much easier IMO.
No problem there, but you can buy the hub caps (push nuts) at hardware stores.
When I removed the lid sides, one side was studded on the interior, secured with those thin thread cutting speed nuts, the other side was secured with bolts which were far easier to remove. Getting those speed nuts back on was a PITA, in the future if I have to remove and reinstall that thing, its likely not going to hold anymore since the stud would've been messed up too much. What do you do then? Cut off the stud and drill a through hole for a bolt?
Obviously someone replaced one of the end caps already. Likely the one with the "speed nuts" is the newer one. I would just find a grill with a matching set and replace both. Just about any end caps from 1985 to about 2005 should fit that lid. So, just find a curb alert donor grill.
My grease tray was in "ok" shape (90% complete, no through holes), after I cleaned it up it looks like there were some deep scratches through the enamel and the metal had started rusting. I see those replacements are pretty pricey so I'm likely not going to replace it until it falls apart on me completely. Before I managed to read more on this forum, I did take a wire wheel to get rid of the rust and overpainted it with high temperature paint. Now I realize that was probably not the best idea since it probably won't stick to the enamel well, and it would technically be "interior" of the cooking box where it gets pretty warm. Since I've already painted it, I plan to wrap the thing in foil next time to keep any fumes trapped if it does off-gas for some reason. Is that a good idea or should I see about completely stripping the high temp paint?
Unless you have a Chernobyl event, it should not get all that hot down there. Many people touch up those grease trays with the HH Paint. I would not sweat it. I suppose a good burn off for about a half hour would be a good idea before cooking anything. Either that, or find a new one from a "donor grill".
 
Obviously someone replaced one of the end caps already. Likely the one with the "speed nuts" is the newer one. I would just find a grill with a matching set and replace both. Just about any end caps from 1985 to about 2005 should fit that lid. So, just find a curb alert donor grill.

Thanks for the response! I lucked out today and got my hands on a silver A, do you know if the end cap would be interchangeable with the B? This A looks to be in decent shape as well with the standard replacements (burner tube, flavorizer bar). I looked at the end cap of this thing and its all nuts/bolts instead of the stud/speed nut I have on the B. I know the lid size and the cookbox appears to be different sizes for sure, but hoping maybe the lid endcap is the same size?
 
Would the lid end cap of a Genesis Gold work on a Silver B? If so, I may have just lucked out.....
Only if the handles are the same geometry. Without a picture I would say the gold end caps will not match.

The entire gold lid will fit on your Silver B if you need a lid.
 
Yah, best to swap the whole lid, but if the lid shape is the same, it should work to swap end caps.
 
Only if the handles are the same geometry. Without a picture I would say the gold end caps will not match.

The entire gold lid will fit on your Silver B if you need a lid.
Thanks for the pointer, the handle is different on the Gold so it looks like I can't do a straight swap.

Yah, best to swap the whole lid, but if the lid shape is the same, it should work to swap end caps.
I will try this during the weekend, if it fits, I'll end up with a frankengrill with a gold lid on a silver B everything else haha

I managed to get my hands on a Gold today, its the kind with the enclosed cabinet which I believe based off this forum it was made only for one or two years? Anyways, the bottom shelf is badly rusted and it looks like one of the side walls is also getting pretty rusty. The cook box looks to be in good shape, most of the frame looks to be in good shape as well (except the left side of the frame with the infamous hard to remove bolt, that looks to have some bad rust but I can't tell if its rusted through).

If I remember correctly, these enclosed cabinet Gold were infamous for rust problems. As far as I can tell, the bottom tray, back wall, and the side walls, only serve to stabilize the entire frame from twisting on you. I'm thinking about building some wood supports to put in their place so there is still bracing against twisting of the frame. Is that a feasible idea or is there another option for me? Ofcourse I can always strip it for parts and junk the rest. I don't have another Gold so it'll be whatever I can also fit on a silver B (so far it looks like the burner tubes, igniter minus the 3rd connection, cook box, wheels, grates, and the two side tables on the left side).

Is there any value in trying to get something for parts like the right side burner (this looks to be in good shape), control panel, manifold (I guess this is a manifold that is only for the gold due to the extra connection to the side burner), etc?
 

 

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