Frame restoration help


 
ChrisArgentino

ChrisArgentino

TVWBB Fan
I am on my last big step of my first Weber genesis 1000 restoration. The frame. My frame has a lot of interior rust inside of the hollow frame. I bought Eastwood rust converter with the tube extension for that. The exterior has spots of rust. Mainly where the welds are but there is some areas of rust. My questions are

1. Do I sand/grind/wire wheel the entire outside of the frame?

2. Do I only sand the parts that have rust?

3. Do I not sand the outside at all?

4. Should I use this rust converter spray on the outside and if so do I go over the paint?

How does one make sure that their frame doesn’t experience rust that comes back in a few years? I want this grill to last as long as possible

Thanks!
 
ChrisArgentino said:
I will re read everything. The rust converter arrived so I will be at least doing the inside of the frame first. I think this is a great method to reach in those areas. I read that these frames have a certain paint on them and stripping the whole frame is not a great idea

Thank you for all of your help with everything
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I've put the stuff inside car door seams where one day you look and orange runs are starting to come through. Man, get that Eastwood in there and it stops it cold :D. Basically you can use the product like "primer", and simply paint over it
 
LMichaels said:
I've put the stuff inside car door seams where one day you look and orange runs are starting to come through. Man, get that Eastwood in there and it stops it cold :D. Basically you can use the product like "primer", and simply paint over it
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Cool! I just saw your message from before. I apologize for the confusion. I never thought restoring a grill would involve so much lolll.

So you would use that Eastwood stuff as a primer over the entire frame? Inside and out?
 
ChrisArgentino said:
Cool! I just saw your message from before. I apologize for the confusion. I never thought restoring a grill would involve so much lolll.

So you would use that Eastwood stuff as a primer over the entire frame? Inside and out?
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Honestly while you "could" I don't much see a reason to externally. Here a good zinc phosphate will do just fine. If you look at car restorations it's what they will use to stop any further surface rust after cleaning off body panels and such. If you look at how well late model Toyotas hold up to not rusting and you look at how they treat the metal, they dip the whole body/frame (unibody) in to a zinc phosphate bath.
 
LMichaels said:
Honestly while you "could" I don't much see a reason to externally. Here a good zinc phosphate will do just fine. If you look at car restorations it's what they will use to stop any further surface rust after cleaning off body panels and such. If you look at how well late model Toyotas hold up to not rusting and you look at how they treat the metal, they dip the whole body/frame (unibody) in to a zinc phosphate bath.
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That sounds like a good idea. Which ever route I go (Eastwood or zinc phosphate), I would have to lightly wire wheel the entire frame correct?

I’m imagining your recommending the since phosphate route because the high cost of the Eastwood is unnecessary to use on the outside since it is less prone to rust issues.
 
ChrisArgentino said:
That sounds like a good idea. Which ever route I go (Eastwood or zinc phosphate), I would have to lightly wire wheel the entire frame correct?

I’m imagining your recommending the since phosphate route because the high cost of the Eastwood is unnecessary to use on the outside since it is less prone to rust issues.
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Yes most definitely you want to get the frame sanded externally especially for the aesthetics of it. This way you can lay a nice finish on it
 
LMichaels said:
Yes most definitely you want to get the frame sanded externally especially for the aesthetics of it. This way you can lay a nice finish on it
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Sounds good. I can use a wire wheel for a light scuff which will just scratch and fade the existing paint or use my angle grinder with a sanding attachment. This will completely expose bare metal. Which one would you go with?
 
You definitely want to sand the entire frame. The scratches are what the paint “bites” into for good adhesion.

I take a SS wire brush to all the welds and seams. Brush like crazy to expose the metal in the corners. And on lyour first coat of paint, hit all the bare metal areas first, let that dry according to the can, and then paint the whole frame.
 
Chris, don't use a wire wheel on the frame unless you're trying to get some heavy rust spots off. You're going to want to sand the frame to prep it for painting. You don't want to sand down to bare metal unless you're dealing with pitting in the frame. Remember you're going to see every high and low spot in that metal frame if you don't do a good job of sanding first. I've never used Eastwood but I'm sure it's a good product if used correctly. I either use Rust-Oleum rust reformer or just the regular paint.
 
So I've tried the Rust Reformer product. It's MEH at best. Seems to allow rust to easily come back. Unless you really get after it with a good primer. Eastwood simply stops it dead in it's tracks. However again, while you CAN use the Eastwood and then treat it as a primer. I honestly feel it's overkill. Here Rust Reformer then ZP Primer and finish or simply ZP primer and top coat. I think the Rust Reformer will simply give it a little added layer of protection under the primer
 
LMichaels said:
Honestly I dislike wire wheel for that type of thing. A sander will give you a much nicer finish
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Sander it is! I don’t have a dedicated sander but a 60 grit angle grinder flap disc should be good. I think I will have to use a wire wheel for some of the pesky corners and weld spots. After I sand, if there’s any more rust, I will spray the Eastwood over the spots of rust. Then use a zinc phosphate spray as a primer then paint over with the high temp stuff.
 
ChrisArgentino said:
Sander it is! I don’t have a dedicated sander but a 60 grit angle grinder flap disc should be good. I think I will have to use a wire wheel for some of the pesky corners and weld spots. After I sand, if there’s any more rust, I will spray the Eastwood over the spots of rust. Then use a zinc phosphate spray as a primer then paint over with the high temp stuff.
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I can pretty much guarantee you will screw up that frame if you use an angle grinder on it. It's too fine of work unless you just have years of experience with that tool. If you want to make life easier you can use a palm sander with 150 or 120 grit paper.
 
Steve Hoch said:
I can pretty much guarantee you will screw up that frame if you use an angle grinder on it. It's too fine of work unless you just have years of experience with that tool. If you want to make life easier you can use a palm sander with 150 or 120 grit paper.
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Have to agree. Especially with heavier grit discs. Angle grinders can be way over powering for finer detail work.
 
Here's a resto thread I had bookmarked where the author described the inside-the-frame painting technique and the smoke produced.

J Grotz

Post in thread 'Genesis 1000 Redhead Restoration'

After some sanding, I used the low VOC version of Eastwood's Pre Painting Prep to clean the frame (I used it on the firebox, too.). That is all they can sell to California. It worked well. The frame was ready for painting. To do the internal painting I built a paint booth in my garage. It is very thin and runny initially to get everywhere on the inside of a frame. I only took a before shot. It was a real mess afterwards.

IMG_3052.JPG

The external frame painting was easier to do on the driveway.

IMG_3102.JPG

If I ever do another one I would buy that nozzle/hose thing from Eastwood and use...
 
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