2007 Weber E-310 refurb


 
Hi all-
I’m refurbing a 2007(?) Weber E-310(?) for parents to use at their farm. This is my second grill refurb, last one was a 2013 E-330 I bought off Facebook market place. I purchased this grill new, just don’t remember when. I put new stainless solid rod grates and 16ga stainless flavorizer bars about 5 years ago. I’m not putting the cabinet back on and will be putting in a new shelf across the bottom made from composite deck boards. I’ve got new burners and an ignitor on order.

I finally got the firebox cleaned out and wire brushed down to mostly shiny aluminum. What a mess! 15 years without a serious bath was a mistake! I’m trying clean the lid and would love to take off the the side panels, which say “Genesis B” embossed on them, to clean them up with a wire brush on the grinder. There appears to be a “nut” pushed down on the studs that is keeping everything together. What’s the best way to disassemble the lid?

I’ve searched the forums and couldn’t find any directions on how to disassemble it.

Thanks for any advice or experience you could share!
 
Despite their cheap appearance, those nuts screw off. Clean the area around the nuts with a wire brush so you can get a socket around them. They should come off fairly easy at that point.
 
Easy way to determine if it is a 2007 Genesis is the manifold is supported by a cross member under the valves. 2008-2010 models have wings on the manifold that sit in slots on the frame. 2007 models also have a separate ignitor vs. the 2008-2010 which it is attached to the front burner. Just in case you need to track down parts.
 
So I’ve got them lid disassembled and cleaned up, though there appears to be some areas of dulling on the exterior of the lid. Nothing substantial. I’ve got the frame disassembled, wire brushed and started sanding the remaining paint with 400 grit paper. I’m having trouble getting the left side plastic end cap off. The back part is loose, but the front side is stuck tight. This is where the most serious rust on the frame is located. I’ve been soaking it with PB blaster and I’ve got a piece of black pipe that I’m sliding down the square tube to bang on the plastic from the inside. Any other suggestions?
 
I'm not as familiar with that particular grill as I could be, but check to see if there is a slot in the underside of the frame where there may be a tab for that end cap to lock into.
 
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My bad. With the firebox and lid pieces being embossed with Genesis, it sent me down the wrong path. Finally got the plastic end cap off the left side. Pretty nasty corrosion in there. Will spray the inside of the frame with rusty metal primer along with the legs and anywhere else that’s away from the heat.

Any downside with using Rustoleum High Temp Ultra (semi-gloss) on the whole frame? The cast aluminum parts are getting Rustoleum High Temp (flat).

This site has been a tremendous resource! Thanks for the help!
 
I use the high temp semi gloss on just the part of the frame that surrounds the cook box. I use rustoleum 2x semi gloss on the rest....but you can certainly use the high heat on all parts of the frame.

I also use the high temp semi gloss on the end caps and the flat high temp on the cook box.
 
In hindsight, I wish I would have gone semigloss on the whole thing. I need to deliver the grill on Wednesday to my parents, so we’re staying with with the flat on the firebox and lid.

I’m trying to clean up with the plastic side tray and the knobs. Simple Green, Sam’s Degreaser, and Dawn haven’t touched the discoloration. I’ve read about a bleach solution works. How much bleach per gallon of water? Will scotchbrite pads damage the plastic?

Finally, I’m ditching the cabinet. The bottom was rusted out as you might expect. I’ve found some pieces of composite decking the almost match the color of the plastic. A nice light gray. The spacing between the legs with the casters and the ones with the wheels is ~25”. I don’t have any structure between the legs on the bottom, so the pieces will run the long way with rabbits cut in the ends. To keep them in place. See the two pictures.
 

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I use straight bleach. Yes a green scotchbright pad will work. Soak it in bleach and spread it on the side table. Let it set a couple minutes and reapply. Keep it wet. Then after a few minutes, scrub away. 90% of the time you will get them clean as new. If they are in really bad shape or badly oxidized, you can actually sand them down. When you are done, apply a good automotive type protectant to them and it will bring back the shine.
 
I use straight bleach. Yes a green scotchbright pad will work. Soak it in bleach and spread it on the side table. Let it set a couple minutes and reapply. Keep it wet. Then after a few minutes, scrub away. 90% of the time you will get them clean as new. If they are in really bad shape or badly oxidized, you can actually sand them down. When you are done, apply a good automotive type protectant to them and it will bring back the shine.
Thanks Bruce for the help!
 

 

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