1993 Genesis 1000 Manifold Thumb Screws


 
A

Alan-Yosemite

TVWBB Member
My 1993 Genesis 1000 (I am the original owner - paid $377 out the door in 1993 :)) has thumb screws to hold the manifold:

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Of course after 28 years, they are seized and rusted. I have sprayed PB Blaster on them a number of times but they are still frozen. I've seen the video from Bruce on how to use a punch to remove a frozen bolt for the cook box but the thumb screws have threads which screws into the cook box. Any ideas on how to remove the thumb screws?
 
You will likely have to just twist them off and then drill them out. Are you sure they are threaded into the cook box? Is there a nut on the other end inside the cook box?
 
I had a couple of Weber's that use the thumb screws. I used a torch to lighly heat the cookbox around the screws and a pair of Vice Grips. Worked like a charm.

Jeff
 
Bruce - thanks for the quick response. There are no nuts for the thumb screws inside the box - sorry for the messy cook box :(:

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You mentioned using centering bit on another thread:

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If you saw some of the back/forth in the Buy/Sell this am, you saw my post about this grill....... I saw this posted for free on NextDoor in a neighboring city (12 minute drive), and it looked in good shape, so I decided to pick it up. The lady who was getting rid of it said she bought it in...
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I don't understand how these bits will help keep the hole centered on a broken bolt.
 
I had the same situation, and I managed to get the screws out...but then I drilled out the threads and used a SS nut and bolt with Never Seez like the later grills.


Cookbox Thread.png
 
ED - that's what I'm planning to do once I get the thumb screws out. I want to pull the cook box out of the frame and start cleaning it up and painting it.
 
It really doesn't matter (about getting the screws out intact) in that case, so you could go directly to the drill (if you can't finesse it out, go to the nuclear option). I spend a lot of time getting the drill exactly in the center of the screw before I commence to drilling, but it really doesn't matter if the hole ends up a bit oversized (it makes it easier to get apart next time is the way I look at it).
 
If you are patient they WILL come out. Believe me I have been there. Now, here is my take coming from personal bad experience. Some people like my friend Bruce sometimes have good luck with a punch on things like this. BUT, it this is your only fire box don't touch it with a punch or hammer. Years of heating and cooling makes cast metal nearly as brittle as glass. And believe me when I tell you I have personally shattered a firebox like this. If you absolutely don't want to bother anymore trying to "unscrew" them. Do this instead. Break or cut them off. Then grind them down as smooth as you can to the firebox. Then use the centering bit(s) Bruce recommended. Those things are lifesavers. I have drilled and perfectly centered WITHOUT a punch the 10mm axle on my Honda walk behind mower with those bits believe me they WORK. And that was with a hand held drill NOT a press! Then use stainless steel screws and nuts after drilling it out
 
LMichaels said:
If you are patient they WILL come out. Believe me I have been there. Now, here is my take coming from personal bad experience. Some people like my friend Bruce sometimes have good luck with a punch on things like this. BUT, it this is your only fire box don't touch it with a punch or hammer. Years of heating and cooling makes cast metal nearly as brittle as glass. And believe me when I tell you I have personally shattered a firebox like this. If you absolutely don't want to bother anymore trying to "unscrew" them. Do this instead. Break or cut them off. Then grind them down as smooth as you can to the firebox. Then use the centering bit(s) Bruce recommended. Those things are lifesavers. I have drilled and perfectly centered WITHOUT a punch the 10mm axle on my Honda walk behind mower with those bits believe me they WORK. And that was with a hand held drill NOT a press! Then use stainless steel screws and nuts after drilling it out
Click to expand...
Thanks - I'll try heating them up lightly with a propane torch and keep trying to unsrew them. I wasn't planning to use a punch since the thumb screws are threaded into the cook box.
 
Jeff MA said:
I had a couple of Weber's that use the thumb screws. I used a torch to lighly heat the cookbox around the screws and a pair of Vice Grips. Worked like a charm.

Jeff
Click to expand...

I used a propane torch to gently heat up the cookbox and managed to get both thumb screws out without breaking them. I'm really surprised the came out without breaking after 28 years. A big thanks to everyone that chimed in!

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Believe it or not, I am still using the original burners from 1993. Since I don't have any plans to get rid of it, I am planning to purchase another set of burners for "backup" in case these rust out in the future. I've read posts where people are purchasing generic burners for grills they are flipping but if I am keeping my grill, should I purchase the Weber 7506 burners or generic ones (if generic, what is a good after market brand)? Are they as good as the original ones? The new middle burner has the holes on top whereas mine has holes on both sides.

I already purchased the grates and flavorizer bars from rcplanebuyer - since I live in the SF Bay Area, I picked them up at his shop. David Santana is a very nice guy and makes a great product. He mentioned the issue with the lack of replacement parts for the bottom grease tray (Weber #40968012) and how it is difficult to make them since they are stamped out of one piece.
 
I would go with an aftermarket set of burners. That is what I have in my personal grill. They are about 1/4 the cost of Weber parts.
 
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