Weber Summit Too Hot? NG to Propane conversion


 
Looking at the valve ignitors on Grillparts.com. There do appear to be some differences. Different metals (possible to make IDing the valves easier). at 29 each, I might just order one and see if it makes a difference. My huge cost savings on this grill will be just about gone if I order 6.
 
If you have the ability to have a NG line run I have to ask WHY NOT?! Running a 670 on LP when you have the option not to is nuts imo.
Also it's not that Weber would "spec" 2 different valves they simply spec a valve with size and flow rates and they don't care who makes it. They are not a manufacturer any more but simply an assembler of outsourced parts by whoever is the cheapest supplier. A fixed valve has 3 or 4 different holes (orifices) machined into the "spool" the continuously variable is just that the spool has grooves that vary the amount of fuel flow in a continuously variable fashion with no "fixed" low/med/high setting. Honestly I would quit screwing around, bite the bullet and get a NG line stubbed in. Believe me you will NOT be sorry. You'll save the cost of it in gasoline alone for not having to constantly get LP tanks for your grill. You will also preserve the warranty as Weber will not stand behind it if you've done a conversion. All this time I thought you did not have NG available.
 
running gas will cost me around $800. Thats is a touch less then I saved on getting the frill. In hind sight, I should have done that at the start. Win some lose some. this one feels like a loss. Between the camper, crab pot and grills, we are pretty damn tied to propane around here. I probably need to get out of that rut.

I ordered a Propane valve (more out of curiosity then anything else.)

I am following you on the valve conversation, but still not connecting all the the dots. If the only diff in the valves (propane to NG) is the orifice, then logically, when all the fixed valves they got on deal run through the production cycle, then everyone with propane should be having my same issue. The variable valve run would then be great. Not trying to be argumentative here, I am genuinely intrigued by this puzzler.

I am not the best at letting go of something once I dig in. Sometimes satisfaction is really costly. Probably would not shock you to know I have a boat trailer in 100 pieces in my driveway. Wife really hit the lotto with me ;).

I feel like Klinger shipping herself a grill and a trailer.
 
"I am following you on the valve conversation, but still not connecting all the the dots. If the only diff in the valves (propane to NG) is the orifice, then logically, when all the fixed valves they got on deal run through the production cycle, then everyone with propane should be having my same issue. The variable valve run would then be great. Not trying to be argumentative here, I am genuinely intrigued by this puzzler. "

I don't think you are. It's not a "run" of anything. It's luck of the draw since Weber no longer actually "makes" anything they simply assemble whatever are the cheapest denominator parts they can find. So if a current build say their suppliers in China had fixed type valves than a grill might get those, if variables were cheaper at the time you might end up with those.
I don't really know how to explain more simply. Weber is not just like any other big box product. They go out there looking for the cheapest supplier for xyz and buy a run of them but if another supplier has something that meets a "spec" even if it's made entirely different they'll use it. There is no consistency. Which is why you're having issues. Honestly NG is SOOOOOOO Much cheaper to use than LP, not to mention consider how much gasoline you'll save not having to get refills or running out during cooking even at $800 it is a bargain. Especially to when you look at all the time and aggravation you're having just not worth it. Go with gas (natural gas) my son :D trust me you'll be so pleased you did
 
Thanks for the help!

I'll be following this thread to see how changing the valve works out before I buy a new manifold. The orifices I are .04 inch (60 bit).
 
LMichaels said:
I don't think you are. It's not a "run" of anything. It's luck of the draw since Weber no longer actually "makes" anything they simply assemble whatever are the cheapest denominator parts they can find. So if a current build say their suppliers in China had fixed type valves than a grill might get those, if variables were cheaper at the time you might end up with those.
I don't really know how to explain more simply. Weber is not just like any other big box product. They go out there looking for the cheapest supplier for xyz and buy a run of them but if another supplier has something that meets a "spec" even if it's made entirely different they'll use it. There is no consistency. Which is why you're having issues. Honestly NG is SOOOOOOO Much cheaper to use than LP, not to mention consider how much gasoline you'll save not having to get refills or running out during cooking even at $800 it is a bargain. Especially to when you look at all the time and aggravation you're having just not worth it. Go with gas (natural gas) my son :D trust me you'll be so pleased you did
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Whether its a run, or luck of the draw, my point is the same. A variable valve will work with both an NG and Propane Orifice. Stepped only NG? I am extremely interested in seeing what happens with the Propane valve that should be here Monday. Im going to play with it with both Orifices.

All that said, I have a call in to a Gas guy to spec the gas line. ;)
 
CJDeeg said:
Whether its a run, or luck of the draw, my point is the same. A variable valve will work with both an NG and Propane Orifice. Stepped only NG? I am extremely interested in seeing what happens with the Propane valve that should be here Monday. Im going to play with it with both Orifices.

All that said, I have a call in to a Gas guy to spec the gas line. ;)
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A fixed or "step" type can work with either or. The issue at hand is that the low and medium ports need to be correctly sized. So i.e. you can use am LP fixed valve to got to NG BUT you will have to resize the low/med ports internally on the spool whereas the variable type there is no need to do so. Conversely though if you try to take a fixed NG to LP you will get little to no regulation from low to high. While not "dangerous" it is terribly inconvenient. Whereas the opposite direction on a fixed type of valve system can be dangerous because there may not be enough flow to support combustion and you can get a big build up of unburned gas and a potential serious explosion.
It's why I keep preaching if you don't know your way around gas and the basics of flow, BTU and using a manometer you should not mess with it. Seriously
 
LMichaels said:
A fixed or "step" type can work with either or. The issue at hand is that the low and medium ports need to be correctly sized. So i.e. you can use am LP fixed valve to got to NG BUT you will have to resize the low/med ports internally on the spool whereas the variable type there is no need to do so. Conversely though if you try to take a fixed NG to LP you will get little to no regulation from low to high. While not "dangerous" it is terribly inconvenient. Whereas the opposite direction on a fixed type of valve system can be dangerous because there may not be enough flow to support combustion and you can get a big build up of unburned gas and a potential serious explosion.
It's why I keep preaching if you don't know your way around gas and the basics of flow, BTU and using a manometer you should not mess with it. Seriously
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The above explanation makes perfect sense. I do appreciate the insight. A never ending cheap supply of NG is looking better and better. had a great dinner tonight but only because I had half the grill on and half off. Not a long term solution.

Thanks again for taking the time here. Ill report out once the new propane valve set shows up.
 
CJDeeg said:
The above explanation makes perfect sense. I do appreciate the insight. A never ending cheap supply of NG is looking better and better. had a great dinner tonight but only because I had half the grill on and half off. Not a long term solution.

Thanks again for taking the time here. Ill report out once the new propane valve set shows up.
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You should just cancel that order. For $800 to run the line I would not bother with LP at all. Just put it all back the way you found it and run it the way it was made for
 
So I finally have some clarity on the above issue. The propane valve arrived today, and I installed it next to the 5 "conversion"valves. I have control over one burner. Seems pretty clear to me that there are some obvious differences (beyond the simple orifice swap out) between the NG and propane valves. While they look very similar, Weber is clearly tweaking something inside the valve to make it work with the gas.

I am not sure what my next move is at this point (heading out of town for the week), but I would caution anyone from going down my road. A regulator and an orifice do Not a propane grill make.

Thanks you all (especially LM) for the advice given here. Hope others don't make the same mistake I did. I am still ahead of the game on dollars, but it was a little frustrating to have a grill for three weeks that could really only cook a steak (but it was a hell of a steak).
 
Wish I had read this before trying to convert my grill. I have a S-670 NG and also bought my parts from Jason. I just did a web search on why I don't see a change from high to low. Figured I'd research before I try calling Jason. What valve part # did you using that works correctly CJ? Any more info?
 
ricco g said:
Wish I had read this before trying to convert my grill. I have a S-670 NG and also bought my parts from Jason. I just did a web search on why I don't see a change from high to low. Figured I'd research before I try calling Jason. What valve part # did you using that works correctly CJ? Any more info?
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I have a brand new in box e-610. Perhaps we can trade some parts? Mine is LP and I want NG.
 
Well my conversion is complete. Spent $200 on a new LP manifold for my S-670. After the swap everything is working as it should. Jason from grill-repair was no help. He insisted that the valves for the NG and LP models are the same. They're obviously not. So after spending another $200 and the $120 for the regulator, propane scale, and the orifices I'm into my brand new S-670 for $1220. Still a killer deal.
 
I have an NG manifold and want a LG, my grill is a summit 6 burner early model, if it’s compatible I’ll swap w u
 
MarkDM said:
I just did the same conversion, using the same source for orifices, and am having a similar issue. Shutters need to be all the way open. Is there a way to check the orifice valves to see if they are fixed or stepped. I'll also double check the size of the orifices.
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I am having the same issue did you ever resolve the issue? Thanks
 
LMichaels said:
There could be a number of reasons. Going from NG to LP is not always the easiest. Most of the later grills come with a continuously variable valve BUT unless you look at them you don't know for sure. If it has "stepped" or fixed orifice valves you cannot change/convert from NG to LP without complete manifold and valve assemblies. You could have also wrong sized orifices too. I remember the first time I converted a grill IIRC it was a 48k btu grill and stupid me I made the orifices for 48k PER BURNER (I think I was drinking at the time) it was a blow torch LOL. So new set of orifices and properly sized and all well.
Odds of your grill having fixed type valves is pretty slim BUT still possible. All depends on which Chinese co Weber sourced them from.
Here is a chart http://andersonforrester.com/conversion-chart/ that will give you reference for the conversion.
You may also have the wrong type of regulator. You can buy high pressure regulators and low pressure types. You need a low pressure type 11"WC.
Good luck sounds like you're gonna need it
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I am having the same issue as the op. NG to LP and no change in flame size) I want to double check the orifice hole size using conversion chart that you linked. I have an s670 do you know what btu I should choose? Thanks
 
Hello All,

I ordered the LP manifold for my Summit grill center which is currently NG. If I change the manifold and regulator will the infrared burner and side burner work properly or are there any other parts that would require changing as well?
 
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