Firebox bolt


 

Dale L. in N. Ga.

TVWBB Member
I'm working on a 2003 silver b that the bolt in the firebox was rusted and broke off. I drilled it out but I may have gotten into the firebox a little. My question is...can I put a stainless bolt with a nut or do I have to tap it and just put a bolt in it? Also what type of paint is best for the firebox and sides of the lid? Thanks
 
A stainless bolt and nut, with a washers too, will work fine. Use some bolt anti-seize on your new ones! The original had a nut also. My recommendation is, if you are fortunate to have a Marsh Fasteners store near enough, go for 316 stainless, which is a better corrosion resistance than even 304. If that isn't possible do make sure that the "stainless" hardware you get is really that. I have had some uneven success with stuff from the hardware stores. Some is totally fine, but some didn't do well at all. Bring a magnet to test:rolleyes:!

For paint, there are various opinions of course. I have grown to really like Krylon's newer High Heat Max. It seems to me to dry much faster and be less prone to runs. I personally like their kind of semi-gloss type for all of the black (sides and firebox), but others prefer using a flat or at least satin black on the actual firebox. If I ever do a classic redhead I will actually do that myself. But for Silvers and other newer grills, I just personally prefer using the richer black on both. Just my own preference. It's what makes the world go around.

Here is a crazy Sunbeam restore where I used the semi-gloss black on the top and bottom. I am sure the original was all flat black, but I think this color made it look classier:

EYkuGaw.jpg


Here is an unrestored Genesis 1x00. You can still see that the side caps were a semi-gloss but that the bottom firebox was a flat black:

2ic8raf.jpg


Also, Rustoleum makes an excellent high heat paint as well.
 
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Thanks for the info. I purchased a stainless bolt and nuts in 316 grade from Fastenal. I painted the firebox with flat paint and didn't like it. It was just too flat. Going to get a gloss paint tomorrow.
 
I noticed that the unrestored genesis in the picture has some haze on the lid. Is there any way to remove all of the haze. I have tried the simple green with 000 or 0000? steel wool. Still has a haze.
 
I noticed that the unrestored genesis in the picture has some haze on the lid. Is there any way to remove all of the haze. I have tried the simple green with 000 or 0000? steel wool. Still has a haze.

I am pretty sure that most of what is in the one in my picture is grease and dirt. Unfortunately, the black hoods are notorious for true haze/fade which it sounds like you are dealing with. If so, I am sorry to say there is no true fix. Porcelain is not like car bodies so you can’t buff or wax it away. A very short term remedy that sometimes helps is to apply some Pam like wax. Of course it will leave residue (which is why it works much like when your hood is wet with water) and it will soon burn off and have to be redone.

The best fix is a donor grill with an unfaded hood.:(
 
Yeah, it is very strange. It seems that fade is not a universal phenomenon. Maybe manufacturing issues, or whatever, but sometimes you will see older black hoods (and kettles even worse) with bad fade and others that are still a nice dark black. My Skyline hood (also black) has fade on the top, and a lot of Skylines seem to also. I just accept it as a minor inconvenience to be able to otherwise enjoy having a Skyline - my favorite Weber hood!
 

 

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