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I know this is an old post but did you find the solution? My fan also quit during a cook and since then I wouldn't trust it during a long cook. I have been adjusting the airflow manually since then. I was assuming a component on the board burned up so yesterday I decided to troubleshoot the...

So I guess right before I put the meat on I could set the lid open to 10 or 15 min then set it back once it gets back up to temp. Thanks

I have been working on getting my HeaterMeter settings dialed in and have a question. When I am smoking on my large big green egg, I get the egg to the target temperature and then add the meat. If I add a lot of cold meat like a couple of pork butts, the temperature will drop and stay there...

I'm not worried about +- 2 degrees so i would prefer the crock pot come on till it goes up a degree then go off till it is a degree below my set point. This is pretty much how my furnace works. I wouldn't want my furnace cycling every 8 seconds. It just seems like that would be bad for the...

That was the problem. The test with the LCD/button board removed worked as expected. I'm going to have to play with my PID settings. At the set temp the SSR device would cycle about every 8 seconds. I would rather have a little temp variation with less cycling. Thanks everyone for the...

Thanks for the suggestion. I removed the LCD/button board and am doing another test. Hopefully this fixes it.

I have also changed the physical temp probe to another one

I moved the the probe from probe 0 to probe 1 and It is still coming on

It is a brand new thermoworks water proof probe and I am not moving the heater meter so it shouldn't be coming loose. I have the following settings PID = 10, 0.007, 16 Fan Pulse on above 5% Min 100% max 100% Start up Max 100%

I went ahead and set the setpoint temp to below my current temperature and the lid open feature keeps coming on.

It quit for a bit but started back up.

I am testing my 4.3 HeaterMeter in a sous vide setup with a crock pot. I have my temp set to 165 F. As the water was heating up and got to about 115 the meter started continuously cycling the lid open. I initially had the lid open at 20% I have tried 99% and 6% and it keeps cycling. Why...

I put together a Ver 4.3 board and was having trouble with the fan always staying on. It turns out Q1 was pushed over and the center lead had come out of the base. See post https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?68203-Fan-Won-t-Shut-Off. I replaced Q1 and the fan was working properly. I put the...

Jeff, I went to the hardware store and bought a sheet of metal and a 1 inch black pipe. I took the solid metal damper off my egg and used it as a pattern. I used metal tin snips to cut out the pattern and then used a step drill bit to create the hole for the 1 inch pipe. As you are drilling...

I got it fixed. Turns out the middle lead came out of the body of Q1. Replaced Q1 and all is working again. Thanks everyone for the help.

I finally got motivated to troubleshoot some more. The Q1 is a BS170. It doesn't matter if it is set to pulse or voltage or set at 0% or 100%, pin 5 of the ATmega chip bounces between 0, .002 and .003. Any thoughts on why pin 5 doesn't chqng voltage? [/URL][/IMG]

What do I need to make my settings so the fan never comes on and the HeaterMeter only works in servo mode? I want to unhook my fan and the heatermeter software to only operate in servo mode and not try to make temp adjustments with the fan. Bob

Is it possible I have a bad Q1?

I reflowed the solder on some of the components and still having the same issue. I'm not sure what to do next

SteveCK, I did not use the heatshrink tubing but have pulled the microdamper housing apart and verified none of the wires are shorting. Also I disconnected the network cable to the microdamper and still have the 12v on the blower pin on the board. John Bostwick, I've gone over the board...