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Hahha, nice. Now I have to do the complicated math to see how much actual cooking surface I have all together with my herd of Webers.

Also, WRT your list of attempts tried, every one of them had permeable material at the joints. You could try your custom printed end caps again, but this time seal them in with some silicone. To prevent them from gettnig stuck, I'd try inserting them then coating the joint with silicone. Or...

I wouldn't use Evaporust for what you are trying to do. The Rust encapsulator that Larry linked to is the way to go. Or, get a product called Ospho. Reason being is that Evaporust actually eats away the rust leaving you with a pitted surface with less metal. The more rust that it eats...

Heh, they're Webers, leave them outside! ;)

Pfffft, you are still in the early stages of it! By my count, you haven't even hit double digits yet

In theory, at each corner of the pan where the sides are folded up, there's a bit of an opening that water is supposed to drain out of. Nice job on the restore !! Nice solution to the bottom rack!

I get what your saying. Thing is though, in the 2nd vid, it wasn't just a fluctuation or blip. It didn't go away by itself. The flames stayed like that until he turned the knobs. Rents, just for grins and giggles, can you shoot a minute or two on high to see if the flames stay like that...

You're welcome Drew

Agreed. My thought is that the heat shield for later models seems to sit in front of all the burners instead of just the one side. Perhaps Weber saw the previous one as a flawed design and changed it during the next model refresh.

Wow, ok. 120qt pot. Just for grins and giggles, I'd check to see how it fits on a 22" kettle. You might have found yourself a stacker :-)

Sous Vide pot for doing briskets and other large items/quantities ? measure the diameter and see if it will fit a SJS or a JJ to make a MiniWSM ? Big ole batch of chili, gumbo, burgoo, brunswick stew ? Cook down some bones to make your own stocks ? BTW, is it possible that you mean...

Larry, just to be sure, you watched teh 2nd video all the way through ? On the high settings, there's incomplete combustion going on in that back cross over tube for some reason. Maybe all of that model do it, I don't know. But if the main tubes looked like that on high, I'd be recommending...

Sweet. You're welcome Bruce! Have more on the way if you want to stockpile some.

Rusty, it's quite possible that it might work. An 18volt hand drill can get a grill box clean. It just takes sooooooo much longer. You could even hand sand, but that takes even longer. A $10 angle grinder runs at something crazy like 10,000 rpm and cuts the time/effort down immensely.

Possibly Bruce. While the big orange flames look ferocious, they actually put out much lower heat than small, tight blue flames. I wouldn't be surprised to learn that it's producing kind of a cold spot on the grill.

The main tubes look fine, but to me, it looks like something is going on with that cross over tube in the 2nd video. I don't think you should be getting flames like that from it. Only thing I can think of is that somehow, there's some kind of slight blockage in the cross over tube. But...

Don't know if this might be important, but the shield that Chris and Dan linked to is noticeably different than the one I linked (which was off a later model EP330.) I'm wondering if Weber changed the design ? And if they'd recommend the newer part as a replacement (presuming that it fits?)...

One thing I'd add is an extension to direct vs indirect heat. If cooking something on a sheet pan or the like, you might want to put a couple of bricks or something down on the grates to act as spacers to elevate higher above the burners. As for stability, it's gas. Once you set the flow, it...