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This post is better suited in either of these sub-forums: "WSM - 14.5", 18.5" & 22.5" "WSM Modificatio"

I assume you're using a blower, and not an axial fan like the MicroDamper uses. That being the case you probably want something like 40-50%. You should want to see more fan usage, right now you have too many coals lit up. Even though you are maintaining temperature well you have little...

You should also keep in mind that the cook you just did outperforms a typical home oven, so there's no need to get hung up on some oscillation.

Looks to me you should try another cook but dial down your fan speed. Then we'll be able to see how it's performing a bit better. What do you have your min and max fan speed set at? No need to write a script for running damper only. Look at your settings it says "Fan on above XXX% min YYY%...

There is a list of people in the thread linked below that provide soldering services. That'd be a good place to start. http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?59833-Community-3D-Printer-Assembly-Trading-Resources

I'm only just seeing this since I had lots of company over for Thanksgiving. I'll be matching the 10% off sale at www.MicroDamper.com through Dec 1st, no coupon code necessary, prices reflect 10% discount.

Not food grade. But either (maybe both) Lowe's or HD sells food grade buckets, they are white and typically cost about $1 more than their regular buckets. They are located in the paint section.

Try Fastenal or Grainger. Most people have one around them and they don't even know it.

PMed you for the MicroDampers. There are a couple people on this forum who are in Europe that build HM units, I'm sure they'll come along shortly.

DAP makes a fire rated silicone sealant, I think good to 1200*. Not sure if JB Weld or this DAP product is safe from off gassing into food though

I wish the HM came with all TC. I'd gladly give up 3 thermistor probes for a replacement of 2 TC probes.

I understood that, but I had 4 others that worked properly and were already setup to attach to my pit - no need for me to waste time to fix it. Bottom line is that it worked just fine. Do you fill the sleeve with a thermal conductive epoxy? What do you use?

That rig looks like the actual welder you're supposed to use for this process. Also Begg, I threw away your thermocouple a while ago (forgot to tell ya), not because it didn't read well, but after a 700 degree cook the spring in the alligator clip was toast.

I posted in the other forum, but I left out a few things. You have to cure it, or it won't taste like ham. And since I live in kind of the general area as you, you might have trouble finding pink salt in B&M stores, I settled with ordering mine online. You might have some luck finding...

Very nice cooker!

You're better off putting this in a different subforum. I've only done 2 hams in my life, was planning on doing one this year for thanksgiving but I don't have the time so I ordered one from Snake River Farms. With that said the two I have done were about 15-18# each, and I did a wet cure on...

Glad you like it! I'm not familiar with the Fire Magic line of smokers, could you post a link to the exact pit you're running?

Interesting. Did you use the heatshrink provided in the kit? You said the servo was working properly, so the damper should have been closed fully while you were way above temp, but the fan was still blowing full? I imagine that could possibly suck in enough air to get a kamado running high...

You also need to keep in mind that flow is decreased exponentially as you decrease the diameter, not linearly. You've reduced the diameter by half of what Ralph has empirically found to work, which translates to 4X less flow. This is also neglecting the drag within the tube. Static pressure...

A few things to keep in mind. These pits weren't designed for set and forgot action, they were made for adding fuel every ~45min. Because of the way they run they also don't need to be completely airtight, though it helps a little. If you plan on running your pit "set and forget" you should...