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That's the problem isn't it! When do I have time to sit down for a couple hours and do this? Life is busssyyyy! I promise it will be done eventually though!

I still prefer the 4.2 model

I haven't had any problems with this. Are you using an appropriately sized soldering tip? You should use the same one that should be used to solder the HeaterMeter; one that comes to a sharp tip. I'll have to find a tripod and everything, I'm not setup for taking youtube videos - never made...

Yeah it's too bad a female RJ45 jack takes up about a 1/4 of the volume of a MicroDamper. The TRRS jack is a good solution, nice and easy to use too. There's a reason temperature probes use a very similar jack

No you do not. You want the HeaterMeter to calculate what should be going on. Just have faith in the system

Why do these kegs run so differently of everything else?

Here I how I can best explain the PID values for practical use. The P factor represents the size of your pit and speed of temp recovery, the I is the driving force of the controller on the pit, the D is the amount of panic you want the controller to have over temperature changes. If you have a...

They do, though it's not linear (obviously so if you understand the math)

Since Mike say's he's been using it for years, he's likely using a blower and not a fan based system which is the newest evolution. PID values will not translate well between the two systems. Start with the PID settings I gave you for the Akorn (which is a double wall insulated steel "kamado"...

Sent ya a PM, the microdamper shop will be back up and running (maybe) tomorrow.

You're best off starting with the settings for a MD on Akorn PID = 4, 0.0035, 5. Fan on above 0% min 0-5% max 60% startup probably 60% as well. If you still get big overshoots you need to start your pit with a smaller fire. The Pulse Duration values represent the full open and full closed...

Did you set your Servo Pulse Duration values, or did you just throw those numbers in there? You fan speeds are too high for a keg too

This is great, I only just bought my first thermoworks probe the other week (I know, I'm a slow adapter on thermometer probes - I cook mostly by feel). Upon boiling water calibration they are TONS faster than maverick probes. Maverick probes NO MORE!

It looks like you wired it exactly I how I explain (well I'm inferring because you mention pin 5 and 6 etc which don't exist). Don't know what your issue was...

For the price it SHOULD be plug and play

Dang! Still snow up there?!

Did you verify which cable type you have? I have a massive migraine, so tracking down what's wrong is not going to happen tonight. I've wired many MicroDampers following those instructions without fail though.

You did, lol. I won't be down long though, just a few days

I didn't know they made Acorn Jrs - how neat! The Acorn is a great pit, they function just as well as the ceramic counterparts. There are plenty of HeaterMeter graphs to prove it! It's my go-to pit in inclement weather

Sorry guys, I put sales on MicroDamper.com on hold. I've just been super busy lately - I'm not retired ya know! Anyways, check http://www.microdamper.com in a few days, I shouldn't be down very long!