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Got the Weber Kettle and SnS going with a 7lb Pork Shoulder You can check out the status of the cook here http://bbq.tizzle.net/ Currently (9:45pm Central time) I'm in an overshoot from starting up but I expected that. I put a bunch of extra lit coals to start, seeing as it's only 35* outside.

The case holds the whole Heatermeter unit with the RasPi and will have all of your connections on it. The Damper (whatever you choose. Microdamper/RotoDamper/ something you make yourself) is what the Heatermeter outputs to. Generally they house the fan/blower and a servo. The servo will...

http://heatermeter.myshopify.com/products/heatermeter-v4-2-kit That's the basic kit with all the solder components. with it you can add the optional raspberry pi, and other things. Also in the store are cases and whatnot. You'd have to ask some one here to send you a damper, as I don't think...

For Those if you with 3D Printers For those with 3D printers: Do you list yourself on one of the 3D printers websites and sell your services? I did some looking around just to see what was offered for services out there, and was intrigued by the idea of buying one and maybe having it print...

Cool. Not trying to push, just seeing if it was up and coming. I totally agree with getting the servo taken care of first. Fix current code rather than add new stuff.

I figured I would bring this thread back up to ask Bryan if he's made any headway on implementing this. Will we be able to see it in the snapshot soon? Or is it a back burner thing? Thanks for all the amazing work by the way. This project is awesome, and the community is great.

Lol. $13 isn't very expensive. I paid $55 for mine. It's a Thermoworks High Temperature Ceramic Fiber Insulated one. But I'm sure that cheaper ones will work just as well. http://www.thermoworks.com/products/probe/tc_hightemp.html Even thermistor based temperature probes are in the $10+ range...

I'm not at my computer so I can't say for sure, but newest version asked for a password when it started up and I don't remember the older one doing so. Did it ask when you attempted to write the image? Maybe there's a place for a password on the old one? Or maybe it requires to be started with...

I just tried it with the current version, (I used the Windows app to do my heatermeter) it didn't work for me either. Couldn't see my USB drive in the list. I downloaded the older version, 1.5.1 (http://www.tweaking4all.com/?wpfb_dl=58) and my USB drive showed up in the list. Might be a bug...

You can't image to the same path ApplePi is running from I would bet, seeing as it's going to trash everything on the card completely and rewrite it. Move ApplePi AND the image file to your computer and you should be fine.

If you make ground the last one I see no problem with it. I guess I could be wrong though?

Spin it fast, and then slowly put it into the hole and it will cut better. I drilled that hole as soon as I got my Microdamper, and have also drilled the hole for the grill side connection (to 1 3/8) both with a step drill. What ends up happening is it pulls up a layer and then it wants to...

I didn't bother with changing them, because the error is where we don't need to be accurate. I put Thermoworks probes in a pot of boiling water and set the offset to get them to read 212 (-1) and called it a day. That's where it needs to be accurate because that's around where we will be cooking...

Just as a tidbit, I used that exact same iron to do mine, and it was my first time ever soldering electrical components to a board. I've done wire to wire, and plumbing solder though. Mine came out just fine and I've been using it for a few weeks now. So the iron will work, you just need to...

I understand what the graphs are showing, and I really like the power and ability it can bring. Maybe have it as an advanced option? It seems like it could be more complex than most people want or even need. That being said, maybe for a normal operation you could have a couple preset options...

I'm live at the moment with a test run of my Heatermeter and Microdamper. I'm running on a 22.5" Weber kettle with a Slow n Sear inside (pictures of the whole setup are in the "how are you attaching your damper" thread) I have nomex gasket between the top and bottom halves, and it's bungee...

I'm live at the moment with a test run of my Heatermeter and Microdamper. I'm running on a 22.5" Weber kettle with a Slow n Sear inside (pictures of the whole setup are in the "how are you attaching your damper" thread) I have nomex gasket between the top and bottom halves, and it's bungee...

I took some 35mm Hydraulic tubing and flared the end of it. Also turned it down slightly on the lathe so it fit nicely inside the Microdamper. Then, punched the biggest hole my step drill would (1 3/8") in the bottom of my Webber 22.5" Kettle and slipped it in from the inside. (I cleaned it...

My intent was not to make it more complicated. On the contrary my suggestion was, in my opinion, a more intuitive way of controlling the pit. I realize that I'm new to this project, but that doesn't mean the suggestion is without merit. If you want to keep using it how it currently is, I'm sure...

I'm glad the idea is well received, and I genuinely think it's the way it should work. Or, at least be an option. There's no sense in running the fan, if the damper is still blocking air flow in my opinion. Thanks for the kind words Steve. This is a super awesome project, and I love the...