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No, not normal... mine measures just about .385VC on the Servo pin, .385V on one side of R21 and 5v on the other, on Q5 I see .385V - 3.3V - .287 The only place you should see 5V is on the high side of R21, the transistor should have only 3.3v on the center pin, low voltages on the other two...

Are you sure you are connecting the servo to the proper wires? I would unplug the HM power and use continuity mode on your meter to see if the red servo wire goes to +5v on the HM board cat5 jack (pins are marked on the board on the solder side), Orange goes to SERVO and brown goes to ground.

Those setting should work to give you a fair amount of movement, doesn't appear to be the issue.

What are your Servo Pulse Duration settings in the HM config? Maybe the issue is there?

Glad you got your probe issue worked out, hope your pork turns out delicious!

Did you reflash the AVR?

Alright, more good info. You have TC pit probe, which is working, and you are having trouble with the first food probe. I wanted to make sure we were not talking about the pit probe here. The pit probe aside, the probe circuits are extremely simple. There are literally only 3 components between...

recent posts are more informative... First, when you say "Probe 1" do you mean the pit probe or food probe 1? (technically the pit probe is "probe 0") you mention at first using it as a thermometer and probe 1 working... if you unplug the CAT5 cable from the HM does that probe function...

Well, I am at a loss because the probe jacks do not connect to the CAT5 jack, therefore plugging in a servo and blower should not effect the probe readings (unless it was somehow effecting system voltages).... I would make sure you have a good CAT5 cable, make sure it is NOT a crossover cable...

Since the probe circuits are not connected to the CAT5 cable in any way by default the issue must be related to voltage... I would try a different power supply, sometime the servo moving and the blower blowing can brown out the 1A power supply and make the HM do strange things.

When you add the RD3 are you still connecting the probes to the HM or are you using them remote through the RD3? Are you using the hand wired RD3 or do you have the RDTC board?

THat's the right style but the wrong contact configuration, should be on-on

I got it from Mouser, dont have the product number off hand, will try to lookup when I have time...

The probe circuits are quite simple, there are only a couple components... Probe jack 10K Pullup resistor (omitted for thermocouple probes) 100K Resistor for probe filter .1uf cap for probe filter ATMEGA This is the cluster of components between the probe jacks and the ATMega, the probe jacks...

Hide the switch? A hidden switch that you can't flip doesn't do much good! If you're not going to flip the switch because you plan to only use the RDTC pit probe then just eliminate the switch and jumper from pin 7 through the 100k resistor for the pit probe... The 10K resistor can be omitted in...

Look at the diagram I referred to, it does NOT go to the header, goes to the switched leg(s) on the probe jacks.

On Page 8 of this thread someone posted my diagram of how to wire the RDTC to the HM board. It shows HMv4.2 board, works the same way on HMv4.3 board though.

If anything melts just shoot me an email and I will set you up with more parts, but I suspect you'll be fine... BTW, Nice looking adapter there!

How far into the fire pit does that pipe extend? If it doesnt go too far in you should be ok, temps drop rapidly over a couple inches. but if you've got a bunch of pipe in the fire heating up you may still have trouble.

Use the control box that has three holes, not the one with two holes and a rectangle (that is for RDTC). Make sure you have this cat5 jack, https://www.homedepot.com/p/Commercial-Electric-Category-5e-Jack-Light-Almond-5025-LA/206427964 . Best to test fit the jack from the outside first, if it...