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I am. I admit it. Here is my arsenal of 4 controllers, 3 Aluma-Dampers, 1 15 CFM damper, and 3 battery packs. Each has a home to satisfy my SAS (Smoker Acquisition Syndrome).

Really don't know what I did to get it dialed in. I built the smoker, a gravity feed smoker, from plans. The site is https://smokerplans.net/collections/cabinet-style-smokers37 It's all insulated, and I had no clue the Heatermeter would keep the temps so much in line. It just happened.

Pork Butt on the Mini Gravity Feed. Stock PID settings, using Fan only (15 CFM). No servo. Gravity Feed

Pretty simple design change. I'll see what I can do.

Frickin' awesome! Welcome to the Gravity Feed club. Looks like you got those plans from SmokerBuilders? i built the Mini and love it. Keeps temps within 1 degree all day long. Great build! Love the integrated HM!

I'll soon be working on a version with an integrated keystone into the design to be printed, much like the original adapt-a-damper.

I ordered 10 servos at a time directly from TowerPro a few years ago. 2 were non-functional. I think TowerPro may even be outsourcing their Servos. I can swear by the Vorpal onces, though.

I like that! I did something similar to control a Slow Cooker for Sous Vide. I made an enclosure for the SSR, but probably can't control 1500W without a Heat Sink. I have the case on Thingiverse Here if you want to make one.

MG90S servo's are notorious for being pirated/faked. You probably do not have the genuine article. I would suggest the MG90 servo sold by Vorpal Robotics. It's made by Tower Pro, and I have never had any issues with them. Same form factor as the MG90S. Great servo and reliable...

The HeaterMeter project beats them all. i can maintain within 1 degree on my smoker.

I use something like this. There are a million versions on Amazon.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088NQV8Z3/?tag=tvwb-20. All are pretty much the same, just re-branded Chinese crap, but they work well enough.

I have designed a new one where it is easier to insert. If you want to use the one you have, then take a sharp knife and put a 45 degree on the the inside of the outer lip of the flexible side (Left side of the section below). This will allow the jack to rotate in. The stationary key of the Jack...

I don't punch down the Capacitor wires. I run them to the side and tack (solder) them to extra lead length that I have running out of the side of the jack. I also Hot Snot the heck out of the wires, and place the plastic cover over them.

I've updated the files in Thingiverse for the plastic version of the Alum-a-Damper to Millimeters. Also added the adapter file. I forgot that I had re-designed he disc also, because the damper is bigger, so I added that file as well (2-hole). Hopefully all the files are good to go now...

Here's my approach. Much more work up front, but makes it easier to change out fans and servos.

Yes, I did accidentally export in inches, so I will replace those files on thingiverse when I get time. Regarding the fit for the Delta fan, it should fit. It's the same as the Aluminum files, and I have had no problems when I printed fitting the Delta fan. The hole for the L-Com should work...

Yes, all yes.

Sorry for the late reply, but I finally got off my butt and posted the designs on thingiverse. I have not yet posted the adapter file yet, as I am still trialing some designs to fit. I'll post once I get completed and tested for fit. Files are on thingiverse at ...

I'll try to get the files on thingiverse this week.