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I had this same issue when I was in Australia, operating on 220V wall power supply. Never really figured out the issue. try running it on 12V DC battery power, or try another power supply and see what happens?

Reviving this thread, because I would highly suggest this little battery unit. Did a full burn of charcoal overnight on my gravity feed with a 15CFM fan (30% max), running the fan full blast for 2 hours before connecting to my smoker. After 16 hours (All charcoal burned), the battery was only...

I second Bryan's suggestion for the "Pi Zero W". I have never had an issue with them, and I've built quite a few. Their WiFi is rock solid.

15 lb. Brisket on the Mini Gravity Feed with large Adapt-a-Damper. http://bigbeggbbq.servebeer.com

Good design work.

Yeah, it actually moves quite freely. I did sand on the mating surface on a granite block to make sure they were really flat before anodizing. I was originally afraid the MG90S wouldn't have enough balls to move the disc freely, but it seems to have no issues.

Well, I finally anodized the AlumaDamper (again, I know. Stupid name). I'm not really happy with the anodizing job. I don't think I cleaned the parts good enough before the acid bath, but I'm OK with it. Do and Learn. [/IMG]

Studying home aluminum anodizing, and before I decide to try it on the aluminum damper, I decided to give it a go on a speed handle I made for my mill. It turned out pretty darn good! I left the machine marks in, but in future ventures, i'll sand to suit a great finish. Next step, anodizing the...

The two on the left are NOT towerpro servos. They are most definitely counterfeit.

Nice! Good luck.

The total weight with components installed and no adapter is just under 1 lb. (15.8 ounces). The plastic version is 5.7 ounces, so about a 10 ounce difference.

Almost done! Just need to design and mill a few different adapters. First will be one to fit a BBQ Guru fitting. Maybe some sanding and polishing may be in order, as I want to try some DIY anodizing. Any suggestions on color? [/IMG]

My method is to start with the 1000uS-2000uS defaults, and WITHOUT the top disc (and servo horn) attached, have the damper go to 100% fully open. Install the top Disc so that the openings line up. Then have the servo go to Fully Closed and adjust the lower uS number until exact fully closed is...

The big bits are done!

The base is done! A lot of machining, but the other parts should be a little more straight forward. [/IMG]

Starting to take shape! [/IMG]

1st chips are gone. Got the belly of the beast removed! [/IMG]

Look! It's the new Aluminum Adapt-a-Damper! well... sorta. I just need to remove all the stuff that isn't a damper. [/IMG]

I've updated the BottomCaseBox_V2 file in thingiverse with the new version allowing easier insertion of the RJ45 Jack. I added a Chamfer on the inside edge. [/IMG]

Yeah, Keystone is in the box. I just realized I never updated that file in Thingiverse when I uploaded the threaded version. Still uses the same box as the V2, but I DO have an updated version of the Bottom_Case_Box that allows the easier installation of the RJ45. I'll try to get that replaced...