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Is everything else working OK on your HM? The reason I ask is when I power cycle my HM it comes back with the data still on the graph from before the reboot.

You could have tried unplugging the wifi adapter from the HM and plugging it back in hopes it reconnects without a reboot...

IDK what default is, I suggest you set to voltage mode...

I would suggest instead of running power out to your grill you run a long CAT5 cable from the HM output to your grill. On the grill end add a couple probe jacks wired to the 4 spare wires in the CAT5 cable, you also need to add one jumper wire per probe on the HM board as well. This way your HM...

Hey, are you using pulse or voltage mode on your blower?

I can't recall if you tried a different servo? That may be worth a shot... With such a long cable the quality of the ends and crimp are very important, I've had some cables perform well and others not. I have hand crimped my cable, its about 50ft long and has been working without jitters for...

If you download the appropriate .gz file from heatermeter.com/dl you can flash it to the HM via Config/System/Backup\Flash Firmware "Flash new firmware image" and select the gz file you downloaded. This will flash the firmware but not upset your settings, should connect right back to your wifi...

Glitches definitely do happen. The other day I had one probe showing CUSTOM rather than the preset I selected. I changed back to the preset and saved but it reverted back to custom, I tried several times. I did a fresh flash on the firmware and the probe went back to behaving properly. If...

Martin, the RDTC board has a thermocouple amp on it, the thermocouple plugs into the RDTC (not the HM), so the TC cable is actually short.

I would try another power supply, when the servo flakes out as the fan ramps up that can indicate a brown-out situation. you could also try another CAT5 cable. If it is a home made cable you might re-crimp the ends... My cable is about 50ft long, goes from my deck through the basement into my...

If you are troubleshooting a newly built heater meter and have new thermoworks probes then I highly recommend that you ditch the older maverick probes for now... Different model maverick probes have had different quirks with the HM, as far as I know the thermoworks Pro probes interface with the...

Thanks for posting the wiki link showing the CAT5 wiring Bryan, I have added a link to that in the appropriate place in the first post of this thread. I have to admit I haven't perused the wiki in quite a while....

I cannot attest to the quality of this particular PSU or the fitment of the connector (though it LOOKs like the connector will fit the HM), but you do have the right specs. I recommend a 12V 2A PSU if you plan to run a blower and a damper with your HM.

shoot me an email at rotodamper AT Hot Mail DOT com, I can help you out...

You should be able to use the most recent firmware, however, you would have to make sure not to set the blower in Voltage Mode, you need to use Pulse Mode because the HMv4.0 does not have the feedback circuit for the blower. I just looked at the online repository and find it odd that the last...

Turns out he had some wonky data in the EEPROM, here is a link to the troubleshooting thread, most if the stuff you want to check is covered there, including erasing the eeprom https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?76475-New-HM-4-3-Build-Wonky-Pit-Probe-Port-Issue/page4

I'm sure youtube has a tutorial on this sort of thing. Basically if I have charred/burned board I usually scrape away the burned stuff with a blade or metal brush, common soldering tools experienced guys may have, but you can get the job done with any number of common tools. Next, install you...

Just clean up the board where you have burned it, remove any fragmented pieces of the damaged traces so they do not short things out, then put jumper wires in place to replace any traces that are damaged. Easy to do and will work just fine.

Sounds like you have a short somewhere from a solder bridge or something, perhaps you should post some close up pictures of the board and someone may spot the bridge for you. If you have proper de-soldering equipment the easiest way to troubleshoot may be to remove the resistor and transistor...

Beyond what has been said about servo quality thus far here are a couple more pointers. There are gears in the shoulder of the servo, so if you have to force it into the mounting hole it will likely bind and stick. The fit should be snug, but not so tight that you have to force it in. To test...