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Upper right pin on that BS170 should be gnd, not 4.7V, start checking for shorts there...

It's kindof a crap shoot... Almost every "Tower Pro MG90s" that I have purchased, counterfeit or not, has functioned well enough to do the job. Some work great, others have a little jitter, some move with more authority, but for the most part they work. These servo's are cheap, roll the dice and...

Could be the outlet you are plugged into? Or different Power Supply?

Ctrl-+ and Ctrl-- , nice trick! Hold CTRL and roll the mouse wheel does the same thing.

Try turning on the AC line noise filter at 60hz and see if that helps?

I agree with Bryan on #1, though some seem to think setting the zero point so the damper remains slightly open is better, I prefer zero=fully closed. On #2, I am not sure I fully understand the question, but as long as the air is getting into the fire box it should work out ok. You want the air...

Glad you got it going with relatively little pain!

Go to config/AVR Firmware and choose "Online Repository" and you should see Reset-eeprom there, you can flash from there to reset (I believe, never actually done it myself) On the SD card, I have had a micro SD card lock up on me in the past, like getting stuck in write protect mode... I wasn't...

My standard output cap for the RD3 fits all the BBQ guru adapter plates.... Shoot me an email at rotodamper AT Hot Mail DOT com and I will help you out....

After you click CONFIGURATION you will come to the main screen where you setup the basic variables. At the top of each probe setup you will see a field for NAME.

Do you already have an RD3?

My zero-w is definitely is faster than the older A's and B's when flipping through config menu's...

Like I said, my HM is extremely fast with the zero-w, much faster than the older A's and B's. Frankly it's so fast I can't imagine that more speed would be required or beneficial. I think putting doubt about the zero-w speed in the minds of readers of the forum is doing a disservice to HM...

My zero-w is very fast, though I haven't plugged in a 3 to side by side, can't imagine the speed of the zero- would be an issue. I find the zero-w much faster than the the old a's and b's.

I guess the wired LAN port and regular size USB and HDMI ports could be a plus if stuck troubleshooting, and you dont have to solder in the header on the 3. As far as function goes the zero-w will give you the exact same HM experience as the 3. I've been using the zero-w for a good while now and...

The top vent clamp down works pretty well on a good grill. Another benefit of the damper is you can open the top vent a bit more than systems without the damper and let things flow more freely... you can also run the system without the fan, just letting the damper control things, more like a...

Without a damper air can flow freely through the blower which limits the HM's ability to reduce the pit temperature. A damper can close off the air flow and greatly improve the HM's ability to lower the pit temp rather than just boost it with the fan. Thermocouple VS Thermistor, a few...

I have no experience with the adafruit supply, but if you plan on using a servo damper I suggest you look at a 2A power supply. In theory 1A should be enough, but in practice many people have proven that a lot of 1A supplies will brown out.

Try the servo alone, outside of the RD3. If it still jumps around and does not make about 180 degree rotation when you go between 0% and 100% HM output then I would suggest you check your CAT5 jack wiring, or you may indeed have a bad servo.

John Bostwick and I collaborated to design the Aux Thermocouple board which is made to fit into my RD3 and does pretty much what you are looking for. You can plug in a thermocouple pit probe and two food probes and run the blower and a servo over a standard cat5 cable (about 50ft max). I leave...