Recent content by MHutchins

User Error - DOH Double Success!! While setting up my new HeaterMeter, I realized the mistake I was making trying to reflash my old model. I was using the USB port rather than opening up the case and reflashing the SD card. DOH!! Every time I read the directions, I saw mention of the USB...

Wow Bryan, I can't believe the generous offer!! That is WAAAY over the top. Honestly, I'm fine with the upgrade and despite bricking my old model, I still think the HeaterMeter is the best value for automated temperature controllers. You can still count me in the fanboy column! Warmest...

I never could get this working and I've run out of patience. I purchased a new 4.3 version and case with a Pi 3B. Hope to be smoking soon!! Mike

Thanks, Bryan. I'm running a Pi B Rev 2 on the 4.2 hardware. I'll try a reflash of the SD card and report back. Thanks, Mike

Hello, I had a working Heatermeter until this morning when I accidentally rest the configuration. I have wired and wireless comms, but the configuration page says "HeaterMeter serial communication can not be established." When I try to reflash the AVR Firmware from the stored file on the...

I used a modified trailer hitch wire receptacle. I took the inner parts out and sawed off the back so it is just 1/2" long, then Pop-Riveted it to the side of the smoker. It's easy to pass 90 degree temp probes through the opening and minimal smoke/heat escapes during use.

If your end game is battery powered, a single servo setup will likely require fewer Amp-Hrs of current than three servos working in parallel. Mike

I think the problem is more related to airflow than your PID settings. Your coals are definitely air starved. If you are certain enough airflow can enter and leave your smoker, then the problem is too much air is bypassing the coals and not contributing to combustion. Mike

I definitely think it is an airflow issue. I just started my UDS and use a 7cfm blower and I get up to temp pretty quick:

My setup may be slightly different, so I'm wondering if Nick's advice in Post #19 will still work for me. My setup is: TWC Cable Modem <--> Ehternet Cable <--> tp-link Archer C7 Wireless Router <~~~> HeaterMeter I use the Archer C7 as the DHCP server with IP reservations for all of the known...

I found this site that has a Steinhart-Hart coefficient calculator. How closely are your values to those produced by the calculator? Did you adjust the boiling temp for altitude? I'm at 735'msl and that is enough to lower the boiling point by ~0.8C. Another source of error could be in the...

I strongly believe you were bypassing too much air around your charcoal and too little air was used for combustion in your previous design. That is why your temperature bloomed when the blower stopped. I had the exact same behavior with my UDS. I solved my problem exactly as you did and now I...

After you do the boiling water test on all your probes and the thermocouple probe, adjust the offset value so they all give you the exact same temperature. Then, try changing the position of the thermocouple probe to the other probe positions and see how the new thermocouple position impacts...

Do you have a link for the SSRs that have been used successfully? I would probably still go with a 25-50A model with or without a heatsink, based on the temperature derate profiles of the other SSRs I've looked at. Here is a much better deal: Fotek 25A Zero Cross SSR w/ Heatsink on Amazon Mike

Here two good choices for an SSR in this application: Crydom 50A Zero Cross SSR Crydom 50A Random Cross SSR Although the Bradley smokers only draw 5.5A, these SSRs are over-specced for some good reasons: 1. Anything less than 20-25A, and the SSR could not be used without a heat sink, which...