Recent content by Jason G

Thanks. I ordered the BGE nomex gaskets for that mod. On top of what you did, I also need to take the ash pan apart, seal the bowl with RTV, and put some nomex behind the vent control. I want to give chargriller a chance to address as well. Check out the gaps I have at the seam on the very...

You couldn't have been more right. I can't believe I never noticed before, but the welding job on my akorn's ash pan is pretty shoddy. There are gaps where the flat top meets the lower bowl, especially on either side of the vent control and the left side hanger catch. I've never really had...

You know what... I did notice smoke seeping out where the ash pan connects to the fire box. It never does that! I'm guessing the weight of the damper is enough to pull it down and mess with the seal. I'm going to use my chimney starter to push the pan up snug, and see what that does.

Hmm... so i'm getting a massive overshoot again... fan was blowing above 40% all the way to the setpoint before shutting down. Overshoot reach 273, 20 minutes after crossing 225 before coming down. How do I teach it to do a better job of walking the temp up and holding at the setpoint?

I used the default settings: b4 p3 i.005 d5 fan and servo with 10/100 min/max The fire at the beginning was all my fault. I know how to start low slow fires, but I forgot about the et732 probe issues that I read about during my 1st v4.1 attempt. I started the fire then connected the pit probe...

I was wondering if anyone could give me advice on a "baseline" PID settings for the chargriller AKORN. I realize I'm going to have to learn a little bit here, and get comfortable PID tuning on my AKORN, but I'm sure there are other AKORN owner's here that have been down this road already I was...

So the new atmega I ordered a while back showed up today, and wouldn't you know. Installed the chip, fired it up, and about a min later... No Pit Probe BOOM! No idea what was wrong with the other chip, or how it got that way, but at this point I don't care.

OK, so I was wrong about pin #2, it's reading 3.3v. It was pin #14 that was lower than stated above at less than 1v... Anybody know what the outputs should be? AND if the voltage is lower than it should be, but continuity is good, is it a matter of creating a better solder joint? or...

Also, i'm going to check this when I get home, but i couldve sworn that #2 (2nd from the bottom right) was ~0v, not 3.3v So let's say pin 11 & 13 check out, but pin 6 doesn't, but there's continuity, what does that mean?

Super cool

Thanks Bryan. So continuity looked good for every pin on the IC3 to whatever it was connected to (and beyond where applicable). I checked the PINS you mentioned at the LCD, all read 0v (including the CNT). Traced thosed back to their corresponding pins on the shift reg, same thing 0v. tried...

multimeter + continuity = over my head. But so was this project... I better start learning!

I did. A few times. No impact. It's so weird... I just can't shake the feeling that I did something when I was trying to fix the LED on my first board because I had everything working for hours beforehand. it's crazy that the whole thing was rebuilt with new parts (except for 5) and the...

OK, so I'm back, but no real news. I saw the LED1 issue, and it looks like i also have one of those boards, but i don't know if that's related to my now "nothing works" issue. so i built a new HM4.1 using a brand new board, .032 solder, and all new parts except for the rpi, atmega, sd card...

I had this problem with the first board i built. I had everything working, then while trying to troubleshoot, i lost everything. is this issue strictly an LED issue or could it lead to other problems?