Knife Sharpener


 
R

Ryan Ko

TVWBB Super Fan
I am looking for a good way to sharpen all of my kitchen knives with out ruining them. Any suggestions? I have a steel and I have read they really don't work. I also have the one you pull the knife across that has the "v" in it. It seems to work ok. Just need something better.
 
Ryan,

There are LOTS of good topics and links in this section related to knife sharpening and maintenance.

I'm looking at taking the plunge on the EdgePro Apex system - it costs a bit, but it's probably less expensive than several professional sharpenings and will save some money in the long run.

It has received some really good reviews around here. If you like SHARP knives, it sounds like the real deal.

Check out this link - take the time to read the links posted in Carl H.'s January 18 post

http://tvwbb.com/eve/forums/a/...50071165/m/549103914
 
I just signed up for a knife sharpening class at this place:

http://www.knifewear.com/index.asp

I have purchased several of the waterstones already and hope that I will save myslef time and money in the long run learning to do this plus I hope to always have sharp hunting knives from now on!!!!!!!!!
 
Hi Ryan,
Quick question about your steel, Is it a diamond coated, or just a standard butcher's steel? A regular steel only "trues" a blade, if your looking to actually sharpen the blades, get a diamond steel, they generally can be found failrly inexpensive, (mine was around $30)and I have had no problems so far keeping my knifes sharp for school, (Im a culinary student)and home use. Of course, a diamond steel won't perform like a whetstone system like the Apex, but it can be a good, cheap alternative in the meantime. Hope this helps ;D
- Rick
 
A regular steel only "trues" a blade, if your looking to actually sharpen the blades, get a diamond steel, they generally can be found failrly inexpensive, (mine was around $30
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True. An far as a regular steel that 'only "trues" the blade' goes, true again, but don't discount this rather important task. Aligning the blade after sharpening and periodically thereafter is important in maintaining sharpeness for longer.

And quite right: Diamond steels can be quite spendy but there is no need to pay top dollar for one.

(Terrific quote, btw, Rick. Love Twain, and that is one I wasn't familiar with.)
 
I do like the V-Sharp, and other similar sharpeners. My issue with them is their lack of scalability, i.e., they tend to have fixed sharpening angles. That can work just fine with many knives. It does not work with most Japanese knives (the only ones I use), nor with American or European knives with which you'd like to change the angle to something other than the stock angle, if that angle is not supported by the sharpener. This isn't an issue if you don't use Japanese blades or if you aren't interested in changing your angles to non-standard angles, but should be noted if you do or are.
 
Can anyone share their experience with sharpeners like the Lansky or Smith systems that have the stones that fit into the angle guides. Getting the angle right and using the appropriate grit stone seem to be the central issues in getting the best edge. Also, both of the systems that I mentioned are available with triangular stones that are supposed to work with serrated blades...I wonder how well they work?

Thanks!

bd
 
My issue with them is their lack of scalability, i.e., they tend to have fixed sharpening angles.
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Exactly. This was my reason for buying the Edge-Pro. I have two Shuns that have a very narrow angle, and a blade metallurgy that supports it. I wanted to keep them at the original angle.

It is also interesting how the Edge-Pro system recommends using their ceramic hone. Hold the hone vertically on the counter and stroke the blade down each side VERY lightly. You are straightening a very sharp and thin edge. Unlike the rapid two-handed whip-whip-whip action you see from TV chefs.
 
Originally posted by K Kruger:
I do like the V-Sharp, and other similar sharpeners. My issue with them is their lack of scalability, i.e., they tend to have fixed sharpening angles. That can work just fine with many knives. It does not work with most Japanese knives (the only ones I use), nor with American or European knives with which you'd like to change the angle to something other than the stock angle, if that angle is not supported by the sharpener. This isn't an issue if you don't use Japanese blades or if you aren't interested in changing your angles to non-standard angles, but should be noted if you do or are.
Click to expand...

So are you saying that the V sharp is a good alternative to the Edge Pro if you are happy with the angles it offers? There is quite a price difference.
 
Originally posted by Bobby D.:
Can anyone share their experience with sharpeners like the Lansky or Smith systems that have the stones that fit into the angle guides. Getting the angle right and using the appropriate grit stone seem to be the central issues in getting the best edge. Also, both of the systems that I mentioned are available with triangular stones that are supposed to work with serrated blades...
Click to expand...

Bobby,

I've heard good things about the Lansky system. It has been around for a long time, and is similar to the EdgePro, but uses a special clamp to fix the guide to the knife. This clamp must usually be moved several times, up & down the length of the blade - plus, it may be difficult to fix properly to some blades.

It sounds like the EdgePro is a bit easier to use - because you simply place the knife on a special "platform" part of the fixture and move it as you sharpen. It's probably a lot quicker, and solves the "difficult-to-clamp" problel. However, it probably requires a bit of technique to ensure that you're holding the knife properly on the fixture (but it does not look like rocket-science).

RE: SERRATED KNIVES:
I've heard that the angled sticks work fairly well for sharpening serrated knives. The triangular cross-section of the "rods" gives you a slightly-rounded point - which can get into the serrations (for serrated knives, you use the "point", rather than the flat side). They're better than nothing, and supposedly more effective than most.

However, I think Kevin Krueger once broght-up a few good points about serrated knife selection:

-It may be easier to buy relatively inexpensive serrated knives, & chuck-em when they get dull.

-Knives with a "wave" edge may work better, and are easier to sharpen.

(Otherwise, send serrated knives to the factory for sharpening - we sent-in my Mom's 50-year-old Cutcos, and they came back like razors!)


Hope you find this helpful / useful
(Definitely gotta' get that EdgePro ordered!)
 
Originally posted by Ryan Ko:
So are you saying that the V sharp is a good alternative to the Edge Pro if you are happy with the angles it offers? There is quite a price difference.
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Yes. You might want the finer stones as well, for some knives, but many kitchen knives need not be taken that fine. Depends on the knife.
 
Originally posted by Bobby D.:
Can anyone share their experience with sharpeners like the Lansky or Smith systems
bd
Click to expand...

I have the Lansky as well as the Edge Pro and numerous other sharpening tools. Lansky can do a very good job if you find the angles it supports to be adequate. It works best for small, stiff blades like a pocket knife. For kitchen knives, the Lansky will mostly get the job done but it's way slow compared to the Edge Pro. Yes, Lansky, Gatco and similar sets are cheaper than the EdgePro, but I would have saved a lot if I just bought the EP first because that's almost all I use now.
 
Originally posted by Bobby D.:
Can anyone share their experience with sharpeners like the Lansky or Smith systems that have the stones that fit into the angle guides. Getting the angle right and using the appropriate grit stone seem to be the central issues in getting the best edge. Also, both of the systems that I mentioned are available with triangular stones that are supposed to work with serrated blades...I wonder how well they work?

Thanks!

bd
Click to expand...

I have a Gatco system that I use on my kitchen knives including my 8" Wustof chef's knife. I found that the stones give a slightly rough edge, so I modify the procedure by wrapping the stones with various grades of wet-dry sandpaper. This combines the precision of using a jig with the flexibility of the "scary sharp" method of sharpening. If the edge needs re-beveling, I'll start with 220 grit and move up to 600 or 1000. (You can get the finer grits at automotive supply stores). This method allows me to get an excellent, razor edge on my knives, and being able to start with the corser grit sandpaper speeds up the process considerably.

Someday, I'll build an Edgepro knock-off so that I can use my Shapton waterstones.
 
I've got really cheap knives (that's why I did the thread about JA Henkel knives). Several years ago,my wife and I were visiting her mother in SW Arkansas,and we saw a place that manufactured whetstones. We stopped in,and bought one for about $6. It actually does a pretty good job of putting an edge on those cheap you know what's! Not the really cheap ones,though. I actually learned how to sharpen knives when I was an Army cook in the early 80's. No jigs or special equipment,just a knife and a stone. It comes in handy,and hope it will do an even better job when I get those knives!
 
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