HeaterMeter v4.0 for RaspberyPi / Standalone


 
It comes together real quick. The assembly guide that Bryan made is excellent. I did end up taking off the RCA jack from the raspberrypi because it's height doesn't allow you to seat the heatermeter properly on the header. Once you remove the jack everything fits perfectly, so I'm designing my case based on this setup. Also, make sure to trim the ends of the connectors that you use to mount the LCD, especially if you put the long ends through the PCB. If they are not trimmed, they come into very close contact with another header on the pi.
 
Tom Kole said:
Boards came last night and I got the heatermeterPi up and running. This thing is so much more responsive than the router based version. The wifi works great and I'm getting started on designing a case with blender. I should hopefully have a prototype designed in the next few days. Bryan, thank you for all of your hard work. This thing is great. If you don't mind, I would like to use that graphic logo you put on the silk screen and incorporate it into the case design. If that's ok, could I get a copy of the graphic file for the logo?
Click to expand...
Yeah isn't the difference in speed incredible? It is really like night and day. I'd still like it to be faster, like hitting the root (/) which bounces you to /luci which bounces you to /luci/lm so it takes about a second to come up. It is a pretty low priority though, on account of it being so much faster than the WRT54GL.

I'm excited to see what you'll come up with in Blender for a case! Can you read Photoshop files? If not I can make them PNG or whatever. I like the photoshop file because it is easy to move the grill / robot around to fit the space you're trying to fill.
http://capnbry.net/~bmayland/fi/bbq/HeaterMeter-Boxy.psd

Dennis, it really comes together quite quickly! I think even taking all the pictures for the assembly instructions and having to dig through my components to get all the parts I was done in about an hour and a half. I'm not what you call "skilled" with soldering, but I will admit I know where every part goes in what orientation which makes it probably much quicker.
 
Tom Kole said:
Also, make sure to trim the ends of the connectors that you use to mount the LCD, especially if you put the long ends through the PCB. If they are not trimmed, they come into very close contact with another header on the pi.
Click to expand...
Which connector on the rPi are you referring to? I know they're pretty close to the whatever that vertical pinheader is. Luckily, to save costs I guess, the newest revision of the rPi board doesn't have a pinheader there! If there is something else that's close let me know because I'd like to investigate.
 
Bryan Mayland said:
Which connector on the rPi are you referring to? I know they're pretty close to the whatever that vertical pinheader is. Luckily, to save costs I guess, the newest revision of the rPi board doesn't have a pinheader there! If there is something else that's close let me know because I'd like to investigate.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the file....The vertical pins I'm talking about are the row just behind the RCA jack. The long pins from the heatermeter lcd connection will pass through them perpendicularly. Once you cut them it is fine.
 
Yeah they're making them but it will be a while before they start showing up delivered. The LCD connector can be soldered long-side-up now if you think it is going to be a problem. In the case, if you have the LCD flush with the front panel the pins are just short of reaching the panel so it does fit in the current configuration,
 
I'm interested in doing this project and already have my Raspberry Pi and usb wifi adapter. I have a couple questions on the parts though.

1) OKI-78SR-5/1.5-W36H-C is out of stock and isn't going to be available until November. The vertical version of the same part is available, OKI-78SR-5/1.5-W36-C. Can this be used and left vertical? If it needs to go horizontal can the pins be safely bent?

2) If I change the RCA connector to a DC power supply connector, which part would be recommended?

3) How do I go about purchasing a board?

Thanks
 
Alan Erickson said:
I'm interested in doing this project and already have my Raspberry Pi and usb wifi adapter. I have a couple questions on the parts though.
Click to expand...
1) Man! Those things sell out so quickly. They just had gotten a few thousand earlier this month. It might fit vertically. The height is 16.5mm and I know the board has about 14-16mm of clearance. Worst case scenario you can just bend the pins horizontal or just a little bit to make it fit with some needle nosed pliers. I won't swear to that but I'm fairly certain it is workable.

2) No barrel jack that I am aware of will fit the RCA footprint, so there's no good replacement. Considering you'll have to use the pin header, I guess something that is "panel mount", i.e. it attaches to the case rather than the PCB.

3) You can either order 3 from OSH Park and get them in about 2 weeks or I still have 1 spare coming in from my next batch if you want to claim that one. $13 via paypal EDIT -claimed-!
 
Last edited:
Tom Kole said:
Bryan, are the LEDs ports currently functional? If so, for what?
Click to expand...
No the only LED that does anything is the bottom one, which just blinks on startup and when RF is received. I still haven't written the subsystem that allows their function to be user controlled.
 
Alan Erickson said:
I'm interested in doing this project and already have my Raspberry Pi and usb wifi adapter. I have a couple questions on the parts though.

1) OKI-78SR-5/1.5-W36H-C is out of stock and isn't going to be available until November. The vertical version of the same part is available, OKI-78SR-5/1.5-W36-C. Can this be used and left vertical? If it needs to go horizontal can the pins be safely bent?

2) If I change the RCA connector to a DC power supply connector, which part would be recommended?

3) How do I go about purchasing a board?

Thanks
Click to expand...

I had my parts from Mouser arrive several weeks earlier then the ETA they posted. With the time it takes to get the boards and such your wait time is reduced.
 
Actually it is a picture of the pre-production board. Both have blue audio jacks and no perpendicular header installed, but the 2.0 board saus "Made in UK" on the side
 
Last edited:
I've been working on the case. I found blender to be a royal pain so I decided to try that autodesk 123d program that is advertised on ponoko. I am very happy with this program and have the bottom of the case near finished. Here is a shot of it:

2vjsl1u.jpg


For giggles, I decided to upload the stl file to ponoko and shapeways to get an idea of how much this is going to cost. As of now, the bottom is almost 35 bucks on shapeways. Does anyone know of a cheaper 3d printing service?
 
I am having trouble finding what the differences are between the 2.0 board and the one currently available. Can anyone shed some light on this and should I wait and get the 2.0 board?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

 

Back
Top