Weber Q220 stops at 400° -- Need mythbusting


 
K

KeithAdv

TVWBB Member
Hey folks!

I'm trying to solve a problem with my Q220 and trying to separate fact from fiction in the process. I hope you can help. I like to use my Weber Performer for longer grills but I love to use the Q for fish and other quick stuff.

My Q220 is several years old but in excellent shape. I think it used to be able to get hotter than 400° but I honestly don't remember. But that is all the hotter I can get it right now.

I've done a lot of internet research and it appears that there may be a widespread regulator issue with this model. However, I wonder if sometimes those owners are complaining about the regulator when they are simply starting the grill incorrectly. In addition, there appears to be about 4 or 5 voodoo techniques for starting the grill (e.g., taking 3 minutes to open the tank valve) beyond the recommended Weber procedure for the Q's. I wonder about those, too. I'm having trouble separating myth from reality there.

To make matters worse, I really don't know anything about regulators but they seem to me like some kind of on-off deal. Either they slam your grill to below 300° or they don't. If I'm wrong about that, please correct me.

So, here's my grill's status. It's on a permanent cart for the Q's, with a 20lb tank attached. The tank was filled yesterday. I have removed, inspected, cleaned, and replaced the burner tube (making sure the spider guard is also clean as a whistle.) I haven't detected any leaks anywhere.

When I fire it up using the recommended procedure, it gets to 350° in 10 minutes, just below 400° in 15 minutes, and 400° in 20 minutes. If I let it sit longer it may creep slightly above 400°.

To me, this is a long way off from the 500° - 550° Weber says it should reach within 10-15 minutes! That's too bad because the difference between 400° and 550° just feels like the difference between baking and grilling.

So, for them that know, what's your diagnosis and what would you do next? Does this sound like a regulator issue to you or something else?

Thank you for all replies!
 
you replaced the burner tube ? i don't use mine all that much but i find that the holes in the tube will start to get plugged up. so one thing i do while giving it a big clean is to clear the holes. do the flames look right ?
mine gets to at least 500 even in winter. but i usually turn it down just a bit so i'm cooking at around 400.
 
just another thought. check that temp gauge ! it might be wrong. get an oven temp gauge or a remote and set it up a few inches off the grate and see what ya get.
 
My Q100 had the same problem. Cleaning the burner holes with a wire brush fixed it right up and it is always at 500 or better now on High.
 
Thanks everyone for the thoughtful replies!

Here's where we are so far...

When I cleaned the burner before, I just used a wire brush over the holes. This morning, however, I took the burner off again and went over each hole very well with a paper clip that was just the right size. I have to admit I've been a little skeptical that this is the problem, since the burner looks great to me. I replaced everything and fired it up. It's been running for 20 minutes and the temp is locked at 400°, like always. I'm eliminating the burner as the problem.

I elevated an old oven thermometer a couple inches off the grill and checked it against the Q220 thermometer. According to this test, the Q220 thermometer is off by about -15° but that seems close enough for jazz in this case.

The flames have always seem lowish to me on this unit but I have no basis for comparison and maybe that's the way it's supposed to look. On an average day, I have to partially close the lid and bend down to just see them. The flames at the two slits in the middle of the burner are higher than the rest. The other holes light quickly and evenly and have a low blue flame.

Assuming that I've eliminated the burner, then the other possible culprits might be (1) the regulator (however, unless someone educates me otherwise, this doesn't really sound like a regulator problem, or does it?), (2) the adapter hose, as LMichaels suggests, or (3) something I haven't even considered. I don't detect or smell any leaks around the hose. On the other hand, my wife tells me that I've had this grill since before 2008. It sits outside year-round, including our Ohio winters. Is it possible that the hose has degraded over time and that it is somehow contributing to the temp loss?

Grasshopper must choose wisely on the next step. The risks are either pointlessly blowing $25 on a new adapter hose or waiting for Weber customer service to send me a new adapter when I don't really need one.

Once again, to them that know, what would you do next?

Thanks again!
 
maybe it is time to call weber. i cooked on mine yesterday and it was up to 500 in less than 15 minutes. course it helps when it's 106 outside.
also, on the output side of the regulator is a small hole. make sure that is clean.
 
KeithAdv said:
Thanks everyone for the thoughtful replies!

Here's where we are so far...

When I cleaned the burner before, I just used a wire brush over the holes. This morning, however, I took the burner off again and went over each hole very well with a paper clip that was just the right size. I have to admit I've been a little skeptical that this is the problem, since the burner looks great to me. I replaced everything and fired it up. It's been running for 20 minutes and the temp is locked at 400°, like always. I'm eliminating the burner as the problem.

I elevated an old oven thermometer a couple inches off the grill and checked it against the Q220 thermometer. According to this test, the Q220 thermometer is off by about -15° but that seems close enough for jazz in this case.

The flames have always seem lowish to me on this unit but I have no basis for comparison and maybe that's the way it's supposed to look. On an average day, I have to partially close the lid and bend down to just see them. The flames at the two slits in the middle of the burner are higher than the rest. The other holes light quickly and evenly and have a low blue flame.

Assuming that I've eliminated the burner, then the other possible culprits might be (1) the regulator (however, unless someone educates me otherwise, this doesn't really sound like a regulator problem, or does it?), (2) the adapter hose, as LMichaels suggests, or (3) something I haven't even considered. I don't detect or smell any leaks around the hose. On the other hand, my wife tells me that I've had this grill since before 2008. It sits outside year-round, including our Ohio winters. Is it possible that the hose has degraded over time and that it is somehow contributing to the temp loss?

Grasshopper must choose wisely on the next step. The risks are either pointlessly blowing $25 on a new adapter hose or waiting for Weber customer service to send me a new adapter when I don't really need one.

Once again, to them that know, what would you do next?

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

My next move would be the soapy water test for leaks. Have you tried a run with a disposable tank? That would rule in or out on the adapter hose. If the small tank does the same thing, sounds like a regulator IMO.
 
Ding! Ding! Ding!

I think we may have a winner!

I finally did call Weber customer service, as suggested. It was nice to see that they live up to their reputation--they sincerely want to help and know their stuff.

As it turns out, everyone here has been giving good advice; the woman I talked to said many of the same things but suggested the order of elimination.

First the burners, which I had already taken care of.
Then the disposable tank comparison. Apparently, yes, the regulator could be the problem and that test would either pinpoint the regulator as the problem or prove it is not.
Then the soapy water on the hose check.
And then finally she suggested checking the tank as the connector can sometimes get slightly out-of-round and fail to seat properly.

However, I didn't need to go very far into the diagnosis. I put on the disposable tank and the behavior was exactly the same--a slow temp rise to 400° and then stop. So therefore, it clearly appeared to be the regulator.

I just talked to customer service again. They had me fire up the grill and they timed it to verify it slows to a stop at 400°. So now they're going to send me a new regulator (and charge me $37 dollars for it!). The grill has been out of warranty since 2009 so I didn't expect to get it free. Still, it was about twice the cost I anticipated!

Thanks everyone. I'll post the final outcome (since I'm sure you're all secretly dying to know!)
 
The new regulator will take the new style disposable fat small tanks as well as the older style narrow tanks if it is any consolation, I bought a new one for my Q220 and that's what I paid also. Easy to install and on a still day with no wind, i can hit 550 -575.
 
keith, after you see if the new one actually fixes the problem, could you do a test for me ? there is a screw in the middle of the knob. you have to punch a hole in the knob sticker. see if the flame changes by turning the screw in or out. i'm wondering if these can be easily adjusted.
 
Solved: Weber Q220 stops at 400° -- Need mythbusting

So, just to follow up on this thread...

The Customer Support rep said it could take up to 14 days to receive the new regulator but that she'd try to get them to "step on it." Two days later, the FedEx truck left me a present.

I have an older Q220. It doesn't have the electric igniter and could only accommodate the 14.1 oz portable cylinders.

I was delighted to see the comprehensive, illustrated replacement instructions. I usually can't be trusted with tools and I'm glad Weber assumes there are people like me in the world. Installation was easy and fast.

The new regulator disk itself is somewhat smaller than my current one. In addition, there is a black flat metal panel attached to it that also connects to the Q220 frame. Does it provide additional support for the regulator? Is it a heat shield? Not sure. The nozzle of the new regulator is angled slightly downward instead of sticking straight out like my last one. I can see that that might reduce some stress on the nozzle part of the regulator. In addition, I was told to permanently remove the support ring for the 14.1 oz cylinder. Someone mentioned earlier that the Q220 now supports the more-common Coleman cylinders so perhaps those two changes made that possible.

Then came the acid test--I fired up the Q220 first with the portable cylinder and then with the 20lb tank. Both times we achieved over 500° in 15 minutes. So, all is well finally!

Over the last few months, the grate hasn't been able to clean itself very well due to the low temperature and I'm still unable to get all the charred junk from it. Should I try oven cleaner?

@George--fiddling with that screw would undoubtedly lead to self-immolation if I tried it! However, if you live in the US and PM me your address, I'd be happy to send you my old regulator to test at your convenience.
 
I would not use oven cleaner on the cast iron grate. Here is a trick. Try running it on high for awhile with the grate turned upside down
 
i think the postage would not make it worthwhile but thanks for the offer of the old regulator. glad its fixed.
i didn't know that the older ones had no ignitor. also that they couldn't use the fat canisters. kinda seems odd to me.
mine is like an 06 model and one of the first things i did was take off that wire support and make one out of strap material
to support the larger canisters.
as to the grate, no, do not use oven cleaner. i just use soap and a stiff ss wire brush. after that i go over the grate with a
screwdriver and knock off the really hard stuff(carbon) and then brush again and wash and dry and oil and use. i never
heat up or burn the grate after a cook. i just turn it off and spray pam on it and thats it. i only brush off the grate after
heating it up for a cook and then oil the grate and cook. no rust problems this way.
 
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