Weber 22.5 OTG, Cajun Bandit BBQ Stacker and air control


 
H

Howard Warren

TVWBB Fan
I have added a Cajun Bandit BBQ Stacker ring to my Weber OTG to make a poor man's WSM. In general it works, but using the "one touch cleaning system" louver for air control is not precise at all. If I use a Minion snake the grill wants to run at 275 degrees, even with the louver almost shut. If I use the Cajun Bandit charcoal ring and a "regular" Minion technique (iow, a pile of charcoal), the grill goes up to 325 degrees and I can't bring it down.

I think my primary issue is the air control through the one-touch louver. It's just not possible to fine-tune the big louver blades. With that in mind, has anybody ever installed the dial-type vent damper from a "real" WSM onto an OTG?

Thanks!
 
You are probably drawing air from above the vents as well. Have you closed off up top to see if there is much smoke leaking out?
My 26" kettle vents are pretty tight and I can snuff my coals with the Nomex I have around the underside of the lid but the 18 does not seal well at all.
 
Chad, C-L is not good in my area for Weber. I've only seen a single Weber WSM in Little Rock on C-L this year (and I bought it!)

Gary, I'll give that a try this weekend. The grill has been pretty well seasoned, both as a steak/bulgogi grill and as a poor man's smoker, so I might not be able to attach any Nomex to it now.
 
Howard Warren said:
I have added a Cajun Bandit BBQ Stacker ring to my Weber OTG to make a poor man's WSM. In general it works, but using the "one touch cleaning system" louver for air control is not precise at all. If I use a Minion snake the grill wants to run at 275 degrees, even with the louver almost shut. If I use the Cajun Bandit charcoal ring and a "regular" Minion technique (iow, a pile of charcoal), the grill goes up to 325 degrees and I can't bring it down.

I think my primary issue is the air control through the one-touch louver. It's just not possible to fine-tune the big louver blades. With that in mind, has anybody ever installed the dial-type vent damper from a "real" WSM onto an OTG?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
You can "fine tune" a OTG pretty accurately if you only adjust the vents in one direction - I adjust to the right (more air) - and don't try to make small adjustments by slightly moving the handle. The handle flexes a good bit before the blades start to move and adjustments aren't very accurate if done this way. If for example you want to close the vents 1/8", close them completely, then open them 1/8" short of where they were. I have reference marks that make this easier. Hope that makes sense.

I agree that a 3-wheeler is better for this purpose.
 
Lew, I think I saw a post from you before saying this, and it's what I've been doing. I also marked reference lines for 1/4 open, 1/2 open, etc. You're exactly right, the handle flexes a LOT. That's why I'm looking at adding the dial as well, for fine-tuning.
 
Not familiar with the OTG but would it be possible to partially block the vents so that the same movement of the vanes results in a reduced change in airflow?
 
Not really. The second purpose of the vanes is to scrape ashes into the built in bucket.

Maybe I should just use this smoker for cooking hot-n-fast pork shoulders :) .
 
I haven't done a lot of fine tuning with the top vent yet... trying to avoid any bitter creosote-taste buildup. But with Kingsford Blue charcoal, do I need to worry about a creosote taste?
 
I restrict the top vents all of the time for LNS even up to 300or so. The less air you have flowing through the lower your temps will be.
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The first two photos are of the 26" kettle lid that I modified. I used dowels to plug the holes completely and force the smoke further before it can exhaust. The heat does not escape from the highest point and forces cross flow. The smoke stays in the cooker longer and the burn is slowed.
The 18 always runs hot. When I cook with it I always plug the two holes closest to the middle of the lid. I often do sausage, chicken, indirect but not LNS so I use these methods. Better control with two vents plugged and two open than 4 vents open 50%. I will run three plugs in the wheel sometimes and can sustain temps at 250 or less. I also use Nomex under the lid for a better air seal.

Call me nerdy, but it works
 
Howard Warren said:
Chad, C-L is not good in my area for Weber. I've only seen a single Weber WSM in Little Rock on C-L this year (and I bought it!)

Gary, I'll give that a try this weekend. The grill has been pretty well seasoned, both as a steak/bulgogi grill and as a poor man's smoker, so I might not be able to attach any Nomex to it now.
Click to expand...

Any good degreaser will clean up the underside lip if you choose to try it. Easy off worked for my 18.
 
I installed regular vent dampers, three of them, in my OTS Cajun Bandit. I have the same air control as on the WSMs. I used foil tape to block the regular ash slots. First time out and having only used the kettle for grilling burgers twice, the temps were rock solid.

They are somewhat visible here.

IMG_0603.jpg
 
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Howard, I also have a CB Stacker. Mine also wants to burn hotter and only needs very minimal air intake.

I would first calibrate your thermometer to make sure that is OK.
Next without the Stacker does your OTG snuff out coals with all vents closed. If so, the fins appear to be doing their job when closed all the way.
Next with the Stacker does it snuff out coals. If yes then it appears you have a good fit with minimal air leakage. So I would assume to manage temps it's a matter of manageing the air intake and exhaust and also a diverter with some insulating materials may help (water, sand, air, etc.)

I also have a OTS where I added 3 (4 hole) vents. It takes very little air intake to manage those temps. If you go this route I would go with just one 18 inch WSM vent.
 
3 Reyes makes a good point about having a good seal between the CB and the kettle. When I got my Smoke EZ (similar to the CB), I had to bend it until I got a good seal before I could control temps easily.
 
Make a good template for the vent holes. If you don't feel comfortable, see if there is someone with this type of experience to assist. On a scale of 1-10 on difficulty, I'd give it an 8. Use a step drill for the vent holes. If you happen to get the holes off a bit, and I did even though I have done this to several cookers, just remove the little tabs on the back of the vent cover. It will spin completely around but will then close over all the holes.
 
J Hoke said:
Make a good template for the vent holes. If you don't feel comfortable, see if there is someone with this type of experience to assist. On a scale of 1-10 on difficulty, I'd give it an 8. Use a step drill for the vent holes. If you happen to get the holes off a bit, and I did even though I have done this to several cookers, just remove the little tabs on the back of the vent cover. It will spin completely around but will then close over all the holes.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the detail! I've done similar work before and I have a "spare" 22.5 OTG to practice on. My "spare" was left behind when the previous owners moved out... they had never cleaned the grill: the louvers were rusted shut, the handle broke off, the grates were horrible, the WOOD top handle had been chewed off by squirrels. I kept it and use it as a work table.

Thanks everybody!
 
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