Summit Platinum B4 Restoration Part 2 (Finale - Results)


 

Sam-TX

TVWBB Fan
Here's Part 1:

Here's Part 1.5 (2 year update)

And now we're here at Part 2, the finale;
Started when I cleaned it, then I noticed there were things I could do to improve it and went for it.

First order of business was choosing the paint to go for. I wanted the lid painted, and the plastic of the side tables painted (in the same color).
I spent a good amount of time with sherwin-williams trying to figure out what paint will work. I measured with an infrared thermometer what the metal pieces of the lid experience under normal operation; I got ~300°F. Not too bad, but above the 200°F that most paints can tolerate.

I very nearly went with the wrong paint after literal hours trying to figure it out, but eventually settled on Dupli-Color Engine Enamel with Ceramic; rated for period 500°F. Available at O'Reilly's but I had to order. I went through 2.5 cans, so always order more than you expect:

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For the side tables I used Rust-Oleum automobile primer I had laying around:

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But for the lid and other parts I needed something with higher heat resistance, so I got rust-oleum high heat primer rated for 2000°F:

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And for parts prone to rusting I got the rust-oleum 2000°F Engine Paint:

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Anyway, here was my starting point; Like I said I did an initial restoration and cleaning, and then triggered me "while the grill is clean I could do this" kind of thing:

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I started by taping and painting the fiberglass side tables:

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I then wanted to fix the inner liner of the lid; There was rust on it, and the rear seam rusted through and came off. Weber sent me a replacement lid, but I didn't like it. I fashioned a new piece with some sheet metal I cut with an angle grinder and bent with some 2x4's. I used the rust-oleum high heat primer and paint on this part. Initially I tried high heat JB weld, but that failed so this morning I ordered steel rivets (for some reason I only had aluminum) from the orange store and took advantage of their $3 delivery.

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Next on the agenda was replacing the steel handle with a wooden one. The steel gets too hot to touch in the sun, and the grill gets direct sunlight during the day if it's not covered. I knew I wanted wood, and I knew it needed to fit the weber grill light. The lid has a 1 3/8" opening, but the OEM steel handle is 1 1/4". I wasn't sure a 1 3/8" dowel would have fit with the grill light, and additionally it would have needed special ordering. I instead found a solid red oak 1 1/4" dowel from Lowe's and gave it several coats of marine varnish over several days. For the ends I used threaded rivet nuts that I simply superglued into holes I drilled, and found some appropriate screws to go in. Ideally I could have used special threaded screw-in inserts, but I didn't have the right size. Also, try as I might, I coudln't get a centered hole in the dowel, but it's not a problem:

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Next came the side panels of the grill. At first I was going to leave the grill intact and paint it, but when I took the handle off, I realized how simple it would be to split so I just took the pieces apart and did them properly. For this I used rust-oleum's super high heat primer (2000°F), but the instructions required it to be cured at 600°F before use. If you're reading this far, good for you, b/c I don't recommend using this unless you're able to cure it properly. The oven in the kitchen was out, and the grill was... getting restored, so I still used the it to preheat the parts, but then I went in with the blowtorch and gave it some extra. I still didn't meet the temperature requirements, but I used such a light coat, I don't think it matters.

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I got them painted and put together again with some high temperature RTV:

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I don't have pictures of the side pieces of the grill getting painted, but I applied the primer and went to town with the blowtorch as best I could to get it to cure. I then more sloppily painted the sides, b/c I was getting exhausted of this whole project that ballooned completely out of control. The weber logo got a repaint with the forum staple: rust-oleum grill paint. It also requires a 400°F cure BTW, and I don't see anyone do that.


There was a lot of "while you're in there work", lots of cleaning. I highly recommend Amsoil's "Metal Protector" for all the stainless steel on the grill. There were a few holes that were rusted through, and the patches in the back where the metal was starting to rust through. Those I used the 2000°F primer and paint.

Anyway, so now finally the results. Here is the before (after cleaning):

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And finally here is the after (Post #2)
 
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I think it came out pretty nice. I don't think this was a particularly attractive grill from Weber to begin with. I wanted a color scheme that sort of matches the "lighter" less striking original - lighter gray-ish tones in lieu of red/black or blue/black, but simultaneously has a bit more contrast than the original. The wooden handle on the green IMO adds that nice touch. Having a holder for the 2nd propane tank is really nice, it compacts everything. I didn't paint the outside pieces b/c I wanted to see how I'd like them with the original gray; and I think painting them with the rest of the grill would have robbed it of some of that contrast. I also don't like the texture of the paint: I would have ideally preferred gloss on the lid (what I got), and a more satin for the tables.

Gloss on those handles just feels wrong... that said, I think it could be slightly improved over what it is now. Anyway, hopefully the grill will put in a solid 10 year's work. There's more in here that I didn't touch on, but this is all getting long. Anyways, enjoy!
 
I am going to post this and then I'm walking away. Sorry, I am sure would never mean to harm anyone but I stand by original assessment of never putting paint INSIDE a grill The following is from an AI search on the question of using paint inside a grill. And again I'd ask why not simply remove the offending liner. It really serves no real purpose


No, it is not safe to paint the inside of the cooking chamber of a gas grill, even with high-temperature paints. The primary reason is that paint contains chemicals that are not food-safe. When heated, these paints can release toxic fumes and chemicals that can contaminate your food.
The risk is not worth the potential health hazards. Here's what you should do instead:
  • Season the interior with oil. The safest and most effective way to protect the inside of your grill from rust is to season the metal with cooking oil.
  • How to season your grill:
    1. Thoroughly clean the grill's interior to remove any rust or debris.
    2. Use a high-heat cooking oil, like canola or grapeseed oil, and apply a light coating to the interior surfaces.
    3. Heat the grill to a high temperature to cure the oil, creating a protective, non-toxic layer.
  • What about the paint you see inside a grill? The black, flaky substance you might see inside your grill's lid or body is likely not paint. It is a build-up of carbon and seasoned grease, which is non-toxic.
  • When to use high-heat paint. High-temperature, rust-resistant paint is only designed for the exterior surfaces of your grill, which are not in direct contact with food.
If you are restoring an older grill, remember that high-heat paint is for cosmetic purposes on the outside. For the inside, stick to proper cleaning and seasoning to keep it safe for cooking.
 

 

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