Ideas for Door latch


 
C

Cory L.

TVWBB Member
The door latch on my WSM 22.5" broke this morning while doing a HH brisket. Went to open the door and the knob came off in my hand as all the plastic on the back side broke off. Called Weber and it will be 10-14 days before replacement shows. Any ideas on how I can get the door to close/latch while I am waiting on the replacement? Thanks.
 
Hi Cory, I wouldn't even use the latch again. I would just plug the hole with a large nut and bolt. Get a small piece of metal or alauminum and drill a hole in it. Then drill a hole above the door, screw it on and voila! You have a latch that will last forever.
 
i had to repair the latch on my older 18 wsm. i used a threaded lever, some washers and now it is tight at all times and latches like it should. what is exactly wrong ?? lid metal to thin or lever just inadequit ?
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Shaun R:
Hi Cory, I wouldn't even use the latch again. I would just plug the hole with a large nut and bolt. Get a small piece of metal or alauminum and drill a hole in it. Then drill a hole above the door, screw it on and voila! You have a latch that will last forever. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Shaun, I am tryng to picture how this would work if you want to open and close the door. Got a pic?
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by george curtis:
i had to repair the latch on my older 18 wsm. i used a threaded lever, some washers and now it is tight at all times and latches like it should. what is exactly wrong ?? lid metal to thin or lever just inadequit ? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

George, I too have had my stock latch fall apart. Weber did send a new door but I suspect it will happen again. The female threads that are inside the plastic latch just keep coming out. Do you have pics of your latch mod?
 
my apologies. i see the 22 has a differant lever system. looks like the lever is made of thin metal. i don't have one to look at. anyone want to post a few pics of it??
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by mk evenson:
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Shaun R:
Hi Cory, I wouldn't even use the latch again. I would just plug the hole with a large nut and bolt. Get a small piece of metal or alauminum and drill a hole in it. Then drill a hole above the door, screw it on and voila! You have a latch that will last forever. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Shaun, I am tryng to picture how this would work if you want to open and close the door. Got a pic? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>Hi MK, Please email me with your cell # and I will give you specifics. My email is in my profile. I would be happy to help and send pics.
 
If the door is Aluminum - try this on for a simple idea:

Get one or two button-size magnets - look for rare-earth or alnico types. (If you have / find some fridge magnets that are strong enough, you can "scavenge" them.) They should stick to the steel mid-section through the aluminum door.

First, dry-test it with one in the center - and see if it holds tightly enough. If not, try two - one in each top corner. Two might provide a tighter seal, if you want that.

Once you find a scheme that works, clean and lightly sand the spots where you want the magnets, then stick them in place and cover them with 100% silicone caulk, and let it dry before cooking with it. Once it dries, the silicone should be able to take the heat. An alternate would be to create some small aluminum "pockets" that will hold the magnets and silicone or weld them in place (if you know someone who can TIG-weld aluminum)

If you do this, you will probably also need to add some type of simple, fixed handle - in order to allow you to grip it without burning your fingers.
 
Thanks for the suggestions. On my latch, the plastic thread portion simply busted when I turned the handle. I ended up finding the 2 washers but the metal lip that is on the inside of the door that holds the door closed is still in the smoker somewhere. I have the stainless steel replacement door from Cajun Bandit. As I said, I have another latch coming from Weber but I don't have much faith in the overall design. I just don't see plastic threads holding up very well to repeated use. I like the idea of a piece of metal that swings down over the door to hold it in place. Just haven't figured out yet how to do it. Pics would be great!!!!
 
Been thinking about this some more. Do you guys think a simple barrel bolt would work? Not sure how well it would sit on the curved door and middle section of the chamber but if a guy could get it attached to both, it should work just fine.
 
I'm thinking something like this might work. What do you guys think?

prs.jpg
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Cory L.:
I'm thinking something like this might work. What do you guys think?

prs.jpg
</div></BLOCKQUOTE>

Cory, maybe? For those of use who flip the door for HH cooks it may present a problem tho. I currently use a piece of wood to hold the door open and it fits on the nob, kinda.

here it is in action:

cookshack001.jpg


I plan on adding more vents and eliminate that need for the door but until I do?

I am sure there are good solutions for door latch mods out there.

Mark
 
Picture a propeller with a hole in the middle. Screw it to the body of the smoker and turn it to open and turn it to close. You can even use wood.
 
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by Tony Lampher:
weld it shut. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

NOPE!
 
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