Help with legs on 26 3/4" Gold


 
D

Darian Hofer

TVWBB Pro
I always wanted to replace the legs on my 22" Gold with better quality tubes but just never got around to it.
Last week I picked up a real nice 26 3/4" Gold for under $100. The leg tubes are so thin you can pinch the ends by hand.
I spent several hours on Saturday checking out box stores and marine stores looking for thicker tubes.
Really just wanted thicker aluminum but ended up finding a good price on SS Bimni tube. 1" OD looks like a match.
Got 3 24" pieces for $35 total. I have seen some fantastic Mods on this forum and I'm not looking to go over the top.
Crushing and bending 2 of the legs to match the standard install with the wheels should not be super hard but would have been
much easier if I would have found quality aluminum instead of Stainless.
I'm open to any other Mod ideas using the SS tubing but I would still like to keep it on the simple side.

Thanks in advance.
Darian
 
no real idea except to say that you will need to carefully crush the pipe you have at the corect angle and then use a grinder or something to round it out.
has anyone actually had a leg collapse that did not have previouse damage ?
 
I just could never understand why weber makes such a large heavy grill with three little peg legs. They need to make a 26 inch with the body undercarriage of a performer,...now I would buy that in a heart beat! Hope it goes well for you.
 
To drill stainless you need to use cobalt drill bits. They are available at HD or Lowes. They are more brittle but work well with stainless.
 
I hate to say this Darian but the leg tubes are only part of the problem. The sockets they plug into are spot welded to the base of the kettle. The leverage from the legs works the sockets causing the welds to pull, or bend due to the thickness of the metal they are welded to. If you can stabilize all three legs so they don't work back and forth it will really help. Dragging the kettle around apparently makes this problem occur more frequently from what I have read. There are members here who will chime in I'm sure if they see this post.
 
Gary S said:
I hate to say this Darian but the leg tubes are only part of the problem. The sockets they plug into are spot welded to the base of the kettle. The leverage from the legs works the sockets causing the welds to pull, or bend due to the thickness of the metal they are welded to. If you can stabilize all three legs so they don't work back and forth it will really help. Dragging the kettle around apparently makes this problem occur more frequently from what I have read. There are members here who will chime in I'm sure if they see this post.
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Gary,
Very good point. Thank you. I don't move them much but I do have one with issues. This might be one of those projects that sound good in your head but just never works out.

Thanks to all for tips on drilling the holes in the SS.
Living in the "Arm Pit of the Gulf Coast" SS and rust are old friends. LOL
I will use good bits and I have a friend with a nice drill press.
Getting the proper crush on the tube if I match factory set up will be the hardest part.
Was also thinking about keeping all 3 legs the same length and mounting to tri shape base with swivel wheels on the base.
Would not keep the stock look but would be easy.
 
Darian Hofer said:
Was also thinking about keeping all 3 legs the same length and mounting to tri shape base with swivel wheels on the base.
Would not keep the stock look but would be easy.
Click to expand...

I think that's a very wise idea Darian. Welding braces joining each leg either at the bottom or just below the ash catcher will then keep them as a single unit so you will have the combined resistance of three sockets. I know you have purchased your material and I am sure it will look sharp but black iron pipe welded and painted would work too if you have a problem with the stainless. You could even make a shelf under there.

Hope the projects works for you and would love to see pics when you are done. I love the 26, it's a great kettle but as Regina S says Weber does need to do something with the base it sits on!
 
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Gary,
Thank you for all the tips.
The build you created for your 26 is fantastic to say the least. The design of your 26 rotisserie is the bomb. I use my 22 rotisserie extension on almost every cook.
Not so much for spinning but for raised direct cooking. Will really miss this on my 26.
I have no welding skills and do not want to venture down that road. I did take a quick look at the black iron pipe but the weight turned me off.
But after purchase of the heavy wall SS the weight difference would have been nominal.
I can always find a use for the SS if plans change.
Thank you again very much...
Darian
 
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Darian Hofer said:
Gary,
Thank you for all the tips.
The build you created for your 26 is fantastic to say the least. The design of your 26 rotisserie is the bomb. I use my 22 rotisserie extension on almost every cook.
Not so much for spinning but for raised direct cooking. Will really miss this on my 26.
I have no welding skills and do not want to venture down that road. I did take a quick look at the black iron pipe but the weight turned me off.
But after purchase of the heavy wall SS the weight difference would have been nominal.
I can always find a use for the SS if plans change.
Thank you again very much...
Darian
Click to expand...

Check out the BGE warming rack for the XL. They're not cheap but it will give you the height you require and covers almost half of the grill. I love mine. I must admit I modified it too by taking out the bottom cross bar to allow food or pans to slide under. They're overbuilt for what they do. :)
 
Gary S said:
Check out the BGE warming rack for the XL. They're not cheap but it will give you the height you require and covers almost half of the grill. I love mine. I must admit I modified it too by taking out the bottom cross bar to allow food or pans to slide under. They're overbuilt for what they do. :)
Click to expand...

We are on the right track. I have the BGE XL. I have made and purchased several raised pieces and such. Was my hope to get some extra use in the 26.

Here is SS piece from my large BGE used in my Weber 22.


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You need to get your goodies listed in your signature Darian. I'm interested in your charcoal set up for the rib cook. Looks like a Kamado style to me. :)
 
Rib cook was kind of a throw together.lol
Old pre date 22 with BGE XL ceramic platesetter with legs cut off for indirect with custom SS Adjustable Rig (Ceramic Grill Store) from my large BGE as raised holder for 18" cooking grid with old Weber Rib Rack. Rotisserie used for more space.
Added my Simpson lid for the temp gauge I installed.
Ugly set up but held like a rock for my 6 hour cook.

My new to me used 26


To be fair I do use my Weber stuff in my Eggs.


 
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That 26 looks pretty awesome! To me half the fun with these cookers is thinking outside the box. We are on the same page!
You need to find a small shop doing metal fabrication and your problems with the 26 will all disappear.
 
Gary S said:
That 26 looks pretty awesome! To me half the fun with these cookers is thinking outside the box. We are on the same page!
You need to find a small shop doing metal fabrication and your problems with the 26 will all disappear.
Click to expand...

We do have a bunch of metal shops in the area because of all the oil and shipping.
Still fishing for ideas. Might sit on this and wait for cooler weather.
 
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