considering the Heatermeter


 
T

Tasos L

New member
hi guys, so I have been reading up on the heatermeter and it really sounds great, got a couple of questions though. Been reading the instructions for setup and looks pretty straight forward for the most part. My question really is in regards to the blower and servo. For setting up something like the Roto damper, what parts do I need extra, as i can see from various posts, I think i need these:

Cat 5 jack
Tower pro MG90 servo
Phone jack 2.5mm
RD3 case?

Actually come to think of it, is there a WIKI I have missed that explains this setup ?

Also, this might be a silly question, but what exactly is the thermocouple circuit board for ? I know its used for high temp cooking, but what does this do that cannot already be done with the heatermeter PCB ?

Thanks

Tas
 
1. I'm not entirely sure it matters, but I believe you should be getting a Cat5e jack (note the "e"). Also, what's the purpose of the phone jack 2.5mm? I'm guessing you don't need it but want to make sure you're not planning to use it for some other purpose.

The way this works is that the servo and blowers operate off of power/signal through the ethernet cable. That cable wires directly into the servo and blower, typically by soldering the wires and wrapping in elec tape, etc, then stuffing all that crap out of the way or down in the "breakout" box that holds the optional remote-probe board Ralph designed (if you're using an RD3).


2. Any of the servo+damper combo threads have posts with pics of setups. I know when I assembled my RD3, I used pics from various posts in Ralph's thread to figure it out.

3. The thermocouple board is used to support thermocouples, simply put. The stock HM board only works with your standard meat probes, which usually cannot exceed 450-500F. Thermocouples can go well beyond that temp.
 
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Nice one, i think you answered my question there. I don't have any need for the 2.5 jack, saw it on one of the posts but couldn't work out what it was for. for the remote probe board is this the one : https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/OduEzbac ?

as for the thermocouple, I dont think this will be needed for regular smoking right ? just out of interest what do other use it for ?
 
The MicroDamper utilizes the phono jack (if you want to set it up with a jack). The RotoDamper utilizes a RJ45 keystone. No need for the phono jack if you go with a RotoDamper.

The thermocouple board is handy because thermocouples can reach very high heats, and they are very durable. I'd recommend getting the thermcouple variation if you can swing the extra money.
 
Tasos L said:
Nice one, i think you answered my question there. I don't have any need for the 2.5 jack, saw it on one of the posts but couldn't work out what it was for. for the remote probe board is this the one : https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/OduEzbac ?

as for the thermocouple, I dont think this will be needed for regular smoking right ? just out of interest what do other use it for ?
Click to expand...

Thermocouple probes are available that can handle much much higher temps than the meat probes that are available, and the thermocouple probes are much cheaper. The ones I use are good to 1300 F and cost $2 or less when ordering 5 packs from ebay. The high temp rating is important for higher heat cooks like searing steaks or pizza. You can't use any of the food probes over about 500 and expect them to last very long. For regular smoking you can use the maverick probes, but the extra cost of the probes will eventually end up offsetting the savings from not getting the thermocouple version of the heatermeter.
 
Yeah between the higher cost of thermistor probes and their lack of durability, going with a thermocouple variation is the way to go in the long run.
 
Thanks for asking this. I registered for this board for this very question. Haven't even started soldering my HM kit yet and I saw about the blower addition.
To recap: the additional circuit board is not necessary?
Thanks guys
 
You only need one board. When you order your board from the HeaterMeter store you can choose either "No Thermocouple PCB" or "Thermocouple PCB".
 
RyanD said:
Thanks for asking this. I registered for this board for this very question. Haven't even started soldering my HM kit yet and I saw about the blower addition.
To recap: the additional circuit board is not necessary?
Thanks guys
Click to expand...

If you just want a blower with servo, you don't need the extra board.

If you want the blower/servo unit to have a remote pit probe and two meat probes, all connected through one ethernet cable up to 50 feet long, you do need the additional board. Note that when using the remote probes, the pit probe and first two meat probes on the HeaterMeter will be disabled, so this only moves the probes, it does not add additional probes.
 
That's exactly what I wanted to know. Thank you. I bought two kits. Both with thermocouples. I'd like one to be more long distance and not hanging on the smoker. To the OP, thank you again for asking first.
 
RyanD said:
That's exactly what I wanted to know. Thank you. I bought two kits. Both with thermocouples. I'd like one to be more long distance and not hanging on the smoker. To the OP, thank you again for asking first.
Click to expand...

For the long distance one, you will want one RDTC board. You can see pictures and the assembly here:

http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?579...And-two-probe-board-V6-1(Final-Version)/page6

It has an Ethernet jack that connects back to the Heater Meter. One K type and two thermistor probe ports sit on the board, and the servo and can connect to the board as well.

I had John Bostwick build me a pair of RDTC boards. He also put a switch on my heater meter for the thermocouple pit probe. The meat probes 1 and 2 self switch between the HeaterMeter and the RDTC board, but the thermocouple needs a mini switch to togle between which pit probe you want active.
 
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