How Do U Use Your Guru Blower Damper?
- Thread starter D Arita
- Start date
I'm using the 10CFM fan on a standard WSM. Depending on the cook I set the slider/damper half closed and typically leave it there. If I want to pick up or raise temps during the cook at some point, say to do a higher temp finish I will open up the damper and set the Guru to the new, higher temp and leave the damper full open for that part of the cook.
If I am doing really low temp cook, say 225 or lower I will start with the damper at 1/4 open to create a slow start.
If I am doing really low temp cook, say 225 or lower I will start with the damper at 1/4 open to create a slow start.
Gary Hodgin
TVWBB Super Fan
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by r benash:
I'm using the 10CFM fan on a standard WSM. Depending on the cook I set the slider/damper half closed and typically leave it there. If I want to pick up or raise temps during the cook at some point, say to do a higher temp finish I will open up the damper and set the Guru to the new, higher temp and leave the damper full open for that part of the cook.
If I am doing really low temp cook, say 225 or lower I will start with the damper at 1/4 open to create a slow start. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
+1, I have a 18 WSM. Guru recommends this on the 10 cfm. I'd keep it 3/4 to fully open if I had the 22 WSM. I also adjust damper depending on pit temp, but 90%+ of the time it's set at 50%.
I'm using the 10CFM fan on a standard WSM. Depending on the cook I set the slider/damper half closed and typically leave it there. If I want to pick up or raise temps during the cook at some point, say to do a higher temp finish I will open up the damper and set the Guru to the new, higher temp and leave the damper full open for that part of the cook.
If I am doing really low temp cook, say 225 or lower I will start with the damper at 1/4 open to create a slow start. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
+1, I have a 18 WSM. Guru recommends this on the 10 cfm. I'd keep it 3/4 to fully open if I had the 22 WSM. I also adjust damper depending on pit temp, but 90%+ of the time it's set at 50%.
225-250 cooks 50% start to Finish. higher heat 275-325 100% If you watch cycle times and mess around with how long fan stays on at certain temps. regulating the damper can keep cycling times down. On a long cook there could be large temperature swings from day to night (40 degrees sunny to 20 degrees windy) and guru was holding 225 at 50% and outside it got windy and cold the heat being drawn from the cooker causes the fan to run a 90% duty cycle at 50% damper opening. opening the damper will put in more air and allow fan to run less for the same cfm needed to keep the temp up.
Seems six of one half dozen other. same results still will be at 225 in the morning. I wonder what the max temp with the 10cfm dampened down 50% could achieve versus the 10cfm fan running 100% at the same ambient temp. that would the answer when you needed to open it up. seems all relative to max. cooker temp needed. this is all just my own speculation of course.
Seems six of one half dozen other. same results still will be at 225 in the morning. I wonder what the max temp with the 10cfm dampened down 50% could achieve versus the 10cfm fan running 100% at the same ambient temp. that would the answer when you needed to open it up. seems all relative to max. cooker temp needed. this is all just my own speculation of course.
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by G.Siek:
225-250 cooks 50% start to Finish. higher heat 275-325 100% If you watch cycle times and mess around with how long fan stays on at certain temps. regulating the damper can keep cycling times down. On a long cook there could be large temperature swings from day to night (40 degrees sunny to 20 degrees windy) and guru was holding 225 at 50% and outside it got windy and cold the heat being drawn from the cooker causes the fan to run a 90% duty cycle at 50% damper opening. opening the damper will put in more air and allow fan to run less for the same cfm needed to keep the temp up.
Seems six of one half dozen other. same results still will be at 225 in the morning. I wonder what the max temp with the 10cfm dampened down 50% could achieve versus the 10cfm fan running 100% at the same ambient temp. that would the answer when you needed to open it up. seems all relative to max. cooker temp needed. this is all just my own speculation of course. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Great detail. As well as Gary Hodgins. Bottom line is that having the larger capacity fan (10 CFM) allows for plenty of latitude to make an adjustment dependent on conditions.
If you get the/a minimum CFM like 4CF your options could be limited.
Getting the 10 CFM for the standard WSM IMHO was a good move and one I've been happy with.
The other advantage is that I can use the same Guru system on other equipment with minimal change. Perhaps just an additional mount/adapter. Certainly can use it on the Performer if I wanted.
Going with the largest CFM and using the damper is key. And has provided for a good bit of flexibility. Basically it's an automated bellows
I like to have large lung capacity and just adjust the blower pattern
I've even used the straight DC adapter/coupler from Guru to eliminate the controller and keep a constant on fan at wide open damper on occasion.
225-250 cooks 50% start to Finish. higher heat 275-325 100% If you watch cycle times and mess around with how long fan stays on at certain temps. regulating the damper can keep cycling times down. On a long cook there could be large temperature swings from day to night (40 degrees sunny to 20 degrees windy) and guru was holding 225 at 50% and outside it got windy and cold the heat being drawn from the cooker causes the fan to run a 90% duty cycle at 50% damper opening. opening the damper will put in more air and allow fan to run less for the same cfm needed to keep the temp up.
Seems six of one half dozen other. same results still will be at 225 in the morning. I wonder what the max temp with the 10cfm dampened down 50% could achieve versus the 10cfm fan running 100% at the same ambient temp. that would the answer when you needed to open it up. seems all relative to max. cooker temp needed. this is all just my own speculation of course. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
Great detail. As well as Gary Hodgins. Bottom line is that having the larger capacity fan (10 CFM) allows for plenty of latitude to make an adjustment dependent on conditions.
If you get the/a minimum CFM like 4CF your options could be limited.
Getting the 10 CFM for the standard WSM IMHO was a good move and one I've been happy with.
The other advantage is that I can use the same Guru system on other equipment with minimal change. Perhaps just an additional mount/adapter. Certainly can use it on the Performer if I wanted.
Going with the largest CFM and using the damper is key. And has provided for a good bit of flexibility. Basically it's an automated bellows
I've even used the straight DC adapter/coupler from Guru to eliminate the controller and keep a constant on fan at wide open damper on occasion.
M. Chesney
TVWBB Fan
Ray-
I noticed you mentioned above that you use your guru on your performer. Can you share how you configured it to work with the ash catcher in the way. I assume you had to drill a hole. Would appreciate any help in how you did this.
Thanks,
Mike
I noticed you mentioned above that you use your guru on your performer. Can you share how you configured it to work with the ash catcher in the way. I assume you had to drill a hole. Would appreciate any help in how you did this.
Thanks,
Mike
Mike:
Never actually used it on the Performer:
"Certainly can use it on the Performer if I wanted."
Is what I said.
Originally I figured I could use it on the Performer with the same mounts whenever I wanted. The thought was that if I wanted to use the Performer as a smoker on ATC controlled smaller cooks I'd simply make a a hole for the same mounts I use on the WSM, etc.
In the end I never found the need to do that.
So bottom line is that the 10CFM fan gives me the latitude to use this Digi II set up on multiple cookers. I.E. I could use it with the same mounts on both version of the WSM, and both sizes of kettles.
So sorry to confuse. But - I'm sure it would work on the Performer if/when I do.
The major point is that having the 10CFM fan allows for the potential to use the same system on multiple cookers and simply choke as appropriate to accommodate change in volume, etc.
If I went with the 4 CFM fan I would be limited IMHO.
In the end the 18" WSM along with the ProQ extender has given me more than enough capacity that I never had to press the Performer into low temp/smoker service.
And since I use lump - for smaller cooks I simply snuff out the fire when I'm done and can re-use any unburnt lump. So smaller, say single rib rack cooks on the 18" WSM really aren't as inefficient as I though they would be.
Never actually used it on the Performer:
"Certainly can use it on the Performer if I wanted."
Is what I said.
Originally I figured I could use it on the Performer with the same mounts whenever I wanted. The thought was that if I wanted to use the Performer as a smoker on ATC controlled smaller cooks I'd simply make a a hole for the same mounts I use on the WSM, etc.
In the end I never found the need to do that.
So bottom line is that the 10CFM fan gives me the latitude to use this Digi II set up on multiple cookers. I.E. I could use it with the same mounts on both version of the WSM, and both sizes of kettles.
So sorry to confuse. But - I'm sure it would work on the Performer if/when I do.
The major point is that having the 10CFM fan allows for the potential to use the same system on multiple cookers and simply choke as appropriate to accommodate change in volume, etc.
If I went with the 4 CFM fan I would be limited IMHO.
In the end the 18" WSM along with the ProQ extender has given me more than enough capacity that I never had to press the Performer into low temp/smoker service.
And since I use lump - for smaller cooks I simply snuff out the fire when I'm done and can re-use any unburnt lump. So smaller, say single rib rack cooks on the 18" WSM really aren't as inefficient as I though they would be.
M. Chesney
TVWBB Fan
Ray-
Thanks, sorry I misread your statement. I just saw the word "performer" and went right to task in drafting a reply. I agree 10CFS is the right fan to give more options if I wanted to get another smoker (BGE, grill dome, or WSM 22) or use it on my performer which after yesterday it is probably unnecessary. I did 2 racks of ribs on my performer and had no issue maintaining the temps at 225 for a 4.5 hour smoke.
Thanks,
Mike
Thanks, sorry I misread your statement. I just saw the word "performer" and went right to task in drafting a reply. I agree 10CFS is the right fan to give more options if I wanted to get another smoker (BGE, grill dome, or WSM 22) or use it on my performer which after yesterday it is probably unnecessary. I did 2 racks of ribs on my performer and had no issue maintaining the temps at 225 for a 4.5 hour smoke.
Thanks,
Mike
Hey Mike no apology required. I hear you on the Performer. That's been my experience on small/longish cooks. Haven't had much trouble keeping temps in line. I have to say though it's used more for high temp, grilling, indirect, rotisserie.
Hmmm, when Is Weber going to do a 27" Performer....
Hmmm, when Is Weber going to do a 27" Performer....
Dave Penn
TVWBB Fan
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by r benash:
I'm using the 10CFM fan on a standard WSM. Depending on the cook I set the slider/damper half closed and typically leave it there. If I want to pick up or raise temps during the cook at some point, say to do a higher temp finish I will open up the damper and set the Guru to the new, higher temp and leave the damper full open for that part of the cook.
If I am doing really low temp cook, say 225 or lower I will start with the damper at 1/4 open to create a slow start. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
+1
I did a 16# brisket at 225 degrees recently, and used a BBQ Guru Smoker Jacket over my 18.5" WSM. I use the 10 cfm fan as well. I ran the damper at 1/4 to 1/3 of the way open. This cook was in a garage where the ambient temp was around 40 degrees and it was totally out of the wind. I checked the cook multiple times, and the DigiQ was running the fan 10-20%, so the fire was getting plenty of air.
The brisket came off after 14 hours, and I had enough unburned Kingsford blue left in the grate that I could probably have cooked another 14 hours. Can't beat that for efficiency.
If the cooker had been exposed to more cold and/or wind or if I'd been cooking hotter, I'm sure I would have had to open up the damper some more to keep the temp on-target.
I've found that it's important to have the damper set right; there's some draft flowing through the fan even if it's not running, so if you leave the damper wide open you can end up with a runaway pit due to that "passive" draft even though the fan's not running at all. Maybe a 4 CFM blower wouldn't be as susceptible to this, but I went with the 10 CFM fan to be on the safe side so I'd have enough capacity to cook in the -20 degree temps we can get here in Minnesota.
I'm using the 10CFM fan on a standard WSM. Depending on the cook I set the slider/damper half closed and typically leave it there. If I want to pick up or raise temps during the cook at some point, say to do a higher temp finish I will open up the damper and set the Guru to the new, higher temp and leave the damper full open for that part of the cook.
If I am doing really low temp cook, say 225 or lower I will start with the damper at 1/4 open to create a slow start. </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
+1
I did a 16# brisket at 225 degrees recently, and used a BBQ Guru Smoker Jacket over my 18.5" WSM. I use the 10 cfm fan as well. I ran the damper at 1/4 to 1/3 of the way open. This cook was in a garage where the ambient temp was around 40 degrees and it was totally out of the wind. I checked the cook multiple times, and the DigiQ was running the fan 10-20%, so the fire was getting plenty of air.
The brisket came off after 14 hours, and I had enough unburned Kingsford blue left in the grate that I could probably have cooked another 14 hours. Can't beat that for efficiency.
If the cooker had been exposed to more cold and/or wind or if I'd been cooking hotter, I'm sure I would have had to open up the damper some more to keep the temp on-target.
I've found that it's important to have the damper set right; there's some draft flowing through the fan even if it's not running, so if you leave the damper wide open you can end up with a runaway pit due to that "passive" draft even though the fan's not running at all. Maybe a 4 CFM blower wouldn't be as susceptible to this, but I went with the 10 CFM fan to be on the safe side so I'd have enough capacity to cook in the -20 degree temps we can get here in Minnesota.
<BLOCKQUOTE class="ip-ubbcode-quote"><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-title">quote:</div><div class="ip-ubbcode-quote-content">Originally posted by M. Chesney:
Ray-
I noticed you mentioned above that you use your guru on your performer. Can you share how you configured it to work with the ash catcher in the way. I assume you had to drill a hole. Would appreciate any help in how you did this.
Thanks,
Mike </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I use a Guru on my Performer. I drilled a hole in the front right below the fire grate for the fan and another whole for the probes at about the 5 oclock position. When cooking, I always set the fire up on the opposite (12 oclock side) and the meat is on the bottom side...typically held back by fire bricks.
It works like a charm. Hope this helps.
Ray-
I noticed you mentioned above that you use your guru on your performer. Can you share how you configured it to work with the ash catcher in the way. I assume you had to drill a hole. Would appreciate any help in how you did this.
Thanks,
Mike </div></BLOCKQUOTE>
I use a Guru on my Performer. I drilled a hole in the front right below the fire grate for the fan and another whole for the probes at about the 5 oclock position. When cooking, I always set the fire up on the opposite (12 oclock side) and the meat is on the bottom side...typically held back by fire bricks.
It works like a charm. Hope this helps.