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For my heatermeter I'm using a radioshack wall wart that allows you to select the polarity on interchangable barrel connectors. My question is... which way should I configure? 1. Barrel +, Pin - 2. Barrel -, Pin + To me it appears that I need to configure for #2- figure a sanity check here...

Steve, the instructions say it is not required if you are using the standard blower... which I am not. John, thanks for the answer! Couple follow ups before I give it a go? when you say "put some solder on the pad and the mosfet", do you mean take the solder in its solid state and use some...

Hi, Has anyone soldered the mosfet tab to the pcb, and if so how did you do it? thanks

After playing around with it for a long while, its *got* to be how I've got it together. I don't think I've got anything explicitly hooked up incorrect, because I CAN get correct values. I'll need to spend some time thinking about how i've currently got things layed out. Every piece I took...

I've done probe swappin and it doesn't seem to be a bad probe. I've got loads of them to play with too since I've got a Maverick to compare too. To be explicit, the HM is reading higher than the Maverick. The results of my dry run were interesting too. Started out 10* too high. The dry run...

so I finally did some back tracking on mine. Turns out I was using 1/4w resistors, and after I desoldered them off, sure enough the came out to be 22k still. Its just so strange... the whole story is that during testing and the build, my temp probes tracked out perfectly. During the 'test...

Alright, new question. Has anyone run against a maverick during their cook? Its strange... I swear I busted out the Maverick while everything was room temp and compared the readings between the HM and the Maverick and everyone agreed within a degree or two, but now I am doubting myself. I've...

i had a question i was hoping one of you guys could answer. Whats the difference (besides the obvious) in the number of termination wires on a blower? I was looking at this blower instead of the one on the parts sheet, and it looks very similar except the number of termination wires is 4...

I don't want to get too far off topic, but that blower mount I referenced is built here in the good ol USA. I like building stuff so that's what has drawn me in here, but admittedly my forte has nothing to do with metal work. I guess maybe I'm doing all the wrong projects, but I've had very...

I must be buying wrong when it comes to construction materials for the blower. My recent totals came out to: $9.95 - silver solder and flux founding in the plumbing section $5 - small sheet of 22 gauge steel $5 - emery cloth $5 - paint (guessing here haven't bought it yet) Considering the...

also, any tips on where to find silver solder to make the blower mount?

hey easy question for you guys, what are you using to drill the whole for the female receiver of the barrel jack? to my surprise, its larger than any drill bit I have! Also, any tips for drilling the holes for the buttons in such a way that everything lines up right?

I want to chime in and say that I hope you don't delete any more posts. I've read the whole thing, and when I went back to find some pieces of information things got really confusing because it looked like people were replying to posts taht don't exist. Its a monster let it be :-)

alright i have a question and I went back in the thread to try and figure it out but I can't seem to find what I'm looking for. In Ed's schmatic ther eis a 1k resistor on the CLR of the shift reg. Is this necessary? Also, IC1P below the shift register is just the cap that should go across...

can anyone offer some words of wisdom for transferring what I've got off the breadboard. If I've got one +5v out on the arduino and lots of components to send that to, whats the best way to go about it? It makes sense to me to break it down a bit, ie there should be a 5v line from the arduino...

hopefully bryan can chime in here.. .on my test setup I'm running 12v through Vin on the arduino (but had plans to go from the jack). I think his graphs of the sag were the 5v going into the shift register on the LCD... I'm starting to think I may keep the Vin because my wall wart actually is...

Alright so I'm going back through some of this thread and making notes about additional parts I need. I've already got the 0.1 uf ceramic cap wired across the +5v and GND pins of my shift register. I also see a note about a 330uf electrolytic cap. This should be wired across the +5v and GND...

I've finally figured it out! I'm very glad I soldered pin headers to the LCD because it turns out the ribbon cable I'm using is bad.

The only thing that seems to be a constant is that it looks fine at startup, and over time it becomes garbled. Once its become garbled, if I disconnect/reconnect power, its still garbled. If I wait a few minutes, I can read it again. I've now got a 0.1 uf cap on my shift register, but I'm...

yep commenting that out works too. Now I'm trying to parse out what I'll call "display irregularities." Sometimes I power the system up and everything looks fine, and sometimes what is on the display is garbage. Haven't quite figured out what it is... I reconfigured my breadboard setup so the...