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That doesn't look like it is submersible to me, so you'd need in/out flows somehow (which could make using a lid tricky). http://www.ebay.com/itm/250722722452?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619 That's the one I was referring to earlier, it's 12v so you'd need to hack a connector for a wall wart somehow...

So, my fuses came today and while I don't have the crockpot here, I plugged in a lamp and played around and it seems to work! Are these PID settings what you are still running with Evan? Does anyone else have any suggestions? I plan on using preheated water in the crockpot to speed up the...

I had a feeling, fl.ux throws off colors sometimes when it changes the color temperature at night. :)

Wow, that looks pretty nice, it's cool how you can see the path the print head took. I like the red too!

Well, finally got some time to put my box together. Got it wired up, broke out the multimeter to make sure I wasn't going to electrocute myself, and realized that the IEC connector I got with fuse holder (from China on ebay) didn't actually have a fuse in it. Oh well, gotta go find one tomorrow...

http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/83-14421 In stock now!

Based on what I've heard from my friends who have been doing their residencies, it's amazingly tough. I can't imagine doing it with twins at home!

The OpenWRT firmware is the same as before. To buy a board, head over to http://store.oshpark.com/products/heatermeter-v4-0

Well, put me on the list when you get the screws sorted and start taking orders! :)

Is it possible to clean up reprap printed models via sanding? I'm curious how they'd look smoothed up and painted, I bet it would be pretty close to the $75 version..

That doesn't look too shabby! What are you doing instead of tabs, are you going to put in standoffs for screws?

Indeed, there's not even much of a usable console when running that OpenWRT image.

Ok, so I decided just to hijack my gf's basic crockpot and go that route instead of a bucket heater. Being a noob to electrical stuff, I wanted to confirm what I understand the wiring to be before I go electrocuting myself based off of this post: - Hot wire goes in to the SSR on 1 and out 2 to...

Upgraded last night without issue, thanks Bryan!

Do gas smokers really need that much tweaking? I'd assume if you had a needle valve and you set it right that there isn't much mucking about to be done.

Tom, how would you say the print quality is re: extrusion vs sintered printing? I've seen some high resolution pictures of reprapped stuff before that at least at first glance didn't look like it would allow for very tight tolerances (like bevelled edges, tabs, etc). Have you had luck producing...

Jason, Bryan has a HeaterMeter 4.0 Assembly guide that maps it out pretty well. If you've got experience with computers, and read a soldering howto online I don't think you'd have much trouble with it. I'm pretty new to this stuff and I built my 4.0 board in like an hour and change this past week.

Nope, no wireless. It was fine, and I was clicking around setting stuff up and suddenly it wasn't. I had never actually had a button hooked up to either of my builds so I was unaware of the reset config option till you brought it up! Thing is humming right along now.

Woo, that fixed it. I wonder how I managed to save some value that screwed it up that badly?

That would require that I've got my button soldered on. :) Is there some method via the command line that I can use? As I said, I can flash the AVR firmware off of the net just fine, OpenWRT is fully functional, etc. Edit: Snapped my button into place, here goes!