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Ralph, can you post a profile pic of the device so that I can see the top of the LCD and button cap in a horizon view.

Two 2-line versions initially. Then Pi-A, 4-line, etc.

You should have a design to test by the end of the weekend.

It's tough, but doable with a soldering iron, flux, and some patience. A hotplate makes it very easy.

Try a zip tie to hold the wires snug against that clip on the fan so that you have some strain relief.

That should save some plastic and print time for the case. What makes the LCD soldering so difficult?

I think Home Depot has them in the hardware section if you look in the drawer with metric bolts. If you can't find them, PM me your address and I'll put 4 in the mail for you.

That's interesting that the acetone shattered your Ultem. I wipe mine every couple if prints or so at 95C with no issue.

I tried 3m with a thin sheet and it turned out miserably. I think a strong epoxy with a flat board and 45 lb or so weight on top while it cures would probably be best.

+1 to test

A serious enough jam can cause the motor to miss steps but you will hear a clicking noise along with it.

You may have some junk in the filament path. Here's what I do: 1. Insert fresh filament by hand at 250C until you see extrusion and then immediately yank out the filament completely. 2. Cut off end of filament and repeat step 1 three more times 3. Crank up hotend to 300C (make sure your max...

Open your firmware pins.h file and swap the pins for e0 and e1 under the ramps section. Just make sure you do it for whatever ramps version you have selected in the config.h. Then just plug your driver and motor into e1

If I read his post correctly, he has already verified that the stepper, driver, and connections are ok. It seems to be that the e0 header is not sending step signals.

Sounds like something is screwy with the signals coming to the e0 driver header. Have you checked the step and dir leads to see if anything is being transmitted? Also check the solder points of the e0 header, maybe one of the junctions went bad. You can always just switch to using the e1 header...

Yeah, axial fans aren't the greatest at pushing air against any sort of resistance. The best you can do is try to create a vaneaxial fan.

Pork shoulder on large BGE with my RSD. I'm putting some new experimentally derived PID constants through their first real cook. B: 0 P: 10 I: 0.008 D: 20 http://heatermeter.kolenet.com/

What is the height of the 2x13 header you are using to connect to the pi? Is the LCD sitting flush against the pin header on the HM, parallel to the board?

Jon, would you post a picture of the HM/Rpi header connection.

The V6 seems like a small improvement over the V5, though I do like the heat block and may upgrade that in the future. The big bonus I see is for people that use 1.75mm filament because the direct and bowden versions are the same. As someone who is currently in 3mm bowden hell and now tinkering...