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Definitely not that good at cutting sheet metal by hand, but a little bit of banging with a hammer on a vice, a file, and some sand paper goes a long way.

Dave, that problem was brought to my attention by another guy and has been fixed. It was a silly arithmetic error and a lesson to me that I shouldn't update designs when I'm tired. I thought I only printed one of the RTD version but I guess wrong. Sorry about that.

It's based off of measurements of a raspberry pi coupled with Bryan's eagle file of the HM board and common pin references. Then everything was refined (many times) with measurements and fittings of assembled HMs.

I reduced the amount of material that has to be drilled out of the through holes in order to reduce the likelihood of getting plastic bits stuck in the wells that interfere with the nuts. The files were updated and uploaded this AM.

Dale, there is no 4 line version for this case yet. I haven't had anyone request one and I don't use them personally. Dave, a basic set of metric hex wrenches should have a 2.5 mm wrench.

The keyhole version is a remnant from earlier designs where people wanted to have the ability to mount the case. It ended up adding a considerable amount of thickness to the case and went mostly unused so it has been abandoned.

Nice work with the adapter, btw.

Glad you like it.

I updated the files to fix something with the thermistor probe versions. They are labeled v1.1 now.

The other thing I forgot about is your bed probe. Where and how many points are you probing?

You can also try increasing the first layer height to 150% so that the effects would be less pronounced.

Your glass is conforming to the plate. This is why I used thicker glass when I used to use glass. Try fabbing 4 corner brackets that can raise the glass.

Which version are you printing? Rotary, in-line, or barrel? The rotary or in-line versions can be easily modified to accept a 34.5 mm dia pipe. The barrel would be a bit more difficult because it is much smaller so you would just have to increase the amount of material surrounding the outlet...

That Iron 3D kit looks pretty solid, I'll have to read more about it. Whatever you do, go with something that has a metal frame. Aluminum extrusions are very popular for printer frames due to their strength, light weight, and the fact that they are easily customized.

Smoking a brisket and using a new thermocouple from Auber on the 4.2.4 http://heatermeter.kolenet.com

If you are going to do borosilicate glass, I recommend you check out Mcmaster. You can can thicker sheets for around the same price and all of mcmasters products are guaranteed to be within spec or you can return.

Have you considered a simple piece of mirror tile from Home Depot? Very cheap, very flat, very rigid. Just clamp on top of your aluminum bed and then put kapton or Ultem on top.

You don't have to wait, they are already up.

We just do this stuff in our spare time but can usually get things done within a week depending on how busy we are.

I usually only make 4-line models when people specifically request it because there doesn't seem to be a large demand for it.