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Nice looking machine Peter! The broken layers don't appear to be in any regular pattern so I don't think it's a leadscrew issue. You appear to be having intermittent extrusion problems which could be coming from any one of several sources. 1. hotend temp: is the hotend hot enough for smooth...

The fan in the hardware section works with the barrel version, not the rotary version. The rotary version uses a more compact fan that is listed on the first page of this thread. Brian, the UDS/rounded version can be found through the file link in the first post of the thread or here. The...

Yup. For the wsm's you can use the uds version if it's easier to make a rounded mount vs. a rectangular mount.

The settings shouldn't be all that different. Can you show us what your fluctuations are like and what settings you are using?

Completely closed at 0%. Basically, the face of the fan entrance into the valve should be parallel to the mount surface when at 100%. At 0%, the valve will be slightly backed off from the point where the fan wire guide meets the end of the track.

That is dependent on where in the servo range you have the valve attached. I believe mine is around 650 to 2000 inverted

B:0 p:3 i:0.008 d:6 Fan min/max 0/100 Fan and servo mode

Ron, I'm away at a conference so I can't send you a pic right now but I will be back on Thursday if someone else doesn't post a pic before I get back. As far as the parts you had printed go, I usually set my first layer so that everything is smooth. Not everybody does this so you may have to...

I think only a mod or the OP can delete a post. I would only use files that are linked on the first page for printing as those are the ones that I maintain.

Eric, that is by design. I chose the spacing based on typical layer heights and set it so that about 1 layer will be skipped when printing the support. This makes it extremely easy to remove. You can tell your local guy to rest assured that this prints fine and this method has been used many...

Search for an online coupon, they always have them.

Which piece are you referring to? If it's the mount, it's just a piece of sheet metal from Home Depot. If it's the conduit, then onlinemetals.com.

I don't have any first hand knowledge of anyone using it, but my biggest gripe would be the cartridges. If you have a way around that, then it seems OK.

I can do that tonight Rich. I CNC'd a version 4.1 case earlier this year and was pretty happy with how it turned out (http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?47421-HM-v4-1-3D-printed-case&p=509351&viewfull=1#post509351). You will probably want to modify the file a bit to save on machine time because the...

That fan should fit based on the schematics, but can't push as much air as the one I have listed from digikey. It's pretty close and shouldn't make a noticeable difference though. As far as printing goes, I don't usually print dampers for people because I don't have time to fab mounts for...

I have not. I would imagine that the pid coefficients need to be reworked for that though.

As Steve mentioned, the TECH brand RJ45 fits fine. The RJ11 and RJ45 actually have the same form factor. The original prototype used the RJ11 because it was designed before the RJ45 standard was built into the HM.

I'm sorry for your loss Bryan. My deepest sympathy to you and his family.

You are supposed to mount it flush with the board. The button only protrudes when you have the button cap on though. Also, I can't tell from your picture because it appears to be taken at an angle, but something seems screwy with your board because the square part of the button should be dead...

Pictures would help, but you should mount the HM board and LCD in the top of the case first without the pi so that you can press fit into case. At this point the button should protrude through the hole. Then attach the pi to the header and seal with the bottom.