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I finished mine up Thursday night (except for the button board) and did a pork butt Friday night with it. The linkmeter worked perfectly! btw, the button board is $5.95 for 3 of them...very cheap. Thanks for all the help!

I'm glad they helped. The board is very tight, so I found a conical tip worked much better then a chisel tip on the iron. Thanks Neil. I'm just getting ready to begin the project; I think I have all the parts now and ready to start soldering once my Hakko 888 arrives. The photos are exactly...

Several of us just bought the wires with the crimped ends on them. Not much more expensive and worked very well. 6" F-F from Pololu worked great. http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/1800

I used heatermeter.cpp.hex, renamed it to hm.hex and ran avrupdate and it worked - I connected my pit probe up and got a temperature reading! I put together a picasa album building up the board. It roughly coincides with Bryans steps here: http://tiny.cc/jmqrfw Picasa Album -...

Ok I've got everything built short of the probe jacks. I was going to install the HeaterMeter from the router (following the instructions on the wiki, https://github.com/CapnBry/Hea.../wiki/Installation), But I can't find the hm.hex in the trunk. There is a heatermeter.cpp.hex and a...

I'm a few steps ahead of you. Bryan posted a picture about half way down this page showing the connection. http://tvwbb.com/eve/forums/a/...36/m/5721075126/p/44 To play it safe...check the output voltage w/ your voltmeter before connecting! Ground is picked up via the serial header, so you...

Also, whats the ip address of your computer when you try to connect to the router? The wire should go from the computer to one of the 4 lan ports (not wlan).

Is the blue dot sticking out next to the probe ports the head of the thermistor? Also, how is everyone holding the lcd display onto the cover - glue gun? Thanks!

That makes sense, Thanks for the reply! </div></BLOCKQUOTE> R7 is is just a wire and is the +5v for the backlight. The schematic shows a button but it isn't used. That is probably there in case you just go heatermeter without linkmeter in which case you could tie the ground pin straight to...

I figured it out... I looked at the parts list again and there are 2 R7's, one is indeed a wire, the other is BTN-R7.

I've got a question on the 3.2 board/schematic - In Bryan's pictures, it looks like there's a jumper where R7 goes, should R7 be soldered to the board normally? Also, it looks like there's 2 pads under R7 and the schematic shows Sj2? What is that? Thanks for the clarification!

If you (or Shane) have any extra boards, I'm interested. Shoot me a pm and we can figure out the details. Neil

From Bryans second post on http://tvwbb.com/eve/forums/a/...03/m/5721075126/p/23 -- Go to Network -> Wifi -- Hit the "Scan" button -- ++ If you get a blank list or the web browser complains about malformed xml, just go back and hit scan again -- Click the "Join Network" next to what you want...

OK, got it...I thought it was going to be a full client bridge, but its a basic client on the network. Diagnostics are working - pinging openwrt sites etc. and I can access it wirelessly from anywhere on my network. I'm still waiting for a few more parts from Mouser before soldering...

If you want, email me and I can help you unbrick it...that I've had experience at! nmm zero zero one AT gmaildotcom Neil

Once you enable wireless, the wireless light and possibly the dmz light will be on. The only other thing you need to do is join the local network. Neil If wireless was enabled, you should have 2 lights on. I think??? </div></BLOCKQUOTE>

I've been having problems getting mine setup as well and I've done at least 10 wrt routers with dd-wrt, but I haven't gotten the openwrt configured correctly yet either, although I haven't tried Bryan's latest instructions above. If you can't get to your router, you've probably misconfigured...

So I tried this and I get "wireless is disabled or not associated" under the wifi tab. However, it is enabled. LAN is the only interface showing uptime, WAN and WWAN do not show any uptime. Should the WWAN be bridged? Also, which subnet is your linkmeter on - are you changing it to be the same...

Last night I flashed a wrt54gs v3.0 and it worked fine. Its actually labeled as a wrt54g-tm but its the exact same model. So you shouldn't have any problems getting it flashed. And for anyone else interested, I had dd-wrt flashed on it before. I downloaded the bin image and used dd-wrt's option...

Quick probe question, for the ambiant temperature, are you just using another food probe? Thanks!