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You will be disappointed, we mainly focus on typical American BBQ, ribs, pork shoulder, brisket etc. There is no real Dutch BBQ culture.

I'm building them primarily for members of our local Dutch BBQ forum. Initially I was planning to build no more than 5 for the "technologically challenged" but demand is high so I keep building more and more.

Another 12 ready to be shipped, this brings my total up to 55!

Everybody thanks for the help so far. I will be on a job in Turkey for the next 10 days so I can't test anything at the moment but will continue as soon as I'm back.

These are my Cura retraction settings;

Did some testing today, printed a smaller version of the pumpkin with slower speed settings and the nozzle temp at 200C. This didn't make much difference and the object failed at the same point as where the larger one failed. Then I tried Cura instead of Slic3r just to see if the slicer was...

Funny that you mention the filament as possible cause, the blue and black filaments are the cheapest that I could find, and the orange filament is the way to expensive and highly recommend (on one of the Dutch tech forums) "Dutch Filaments PLA", but I guess that price alone is not the only...

My Reprap 3D printer is alive. It came as a full kit from China and it was pretty straight forward to build, even with the Chinglish build manual. It only took me two evenings to complete. The wiring is still a mess but at least it's printing. Small objects come out fine. (The dots on the...

I assumed you put the connector on the wrong side of the PCB, if the connector is on the right side then there is no reason to remove the connector. Just being curious but why did you think the connector was backwards since there is no key as Ralph has already pointed out?

I would cut the Pi connector in pieces and remove the pins individually, this will destroy the connector but you'll save the board.

Looks familiar ;) Replacing all parts that require bending and cutting (resistors, diodes, transistors etc) by SMD will save a lot of time, not sure about the IC's. How about replacing R0 by a cuttable trace on the PCB?

Do you have an Ebay link for these thermistors?

Which version HM have you build? I had problems similar problems with a version 4.1 board with the latest two versions of the AVR software. I guess this has something to do with the higher switching frequency of the blower output. The board works fine with the June 12 2014 version of the AVR...

This should be 11kOhm. Looks like a solder bridge between pin 1 and 2, or between the leads of C11.

Check the polarity of D3, sounds like it is installed the wrong way.

Nothing to worry about Tom, it's designed that way.

All boards are sold.

Only 2 left.

New color? See through orange? Blue is also nice, Tom, thanks for the excellent cases (as usual).

No display, only 3 probes and only 2 LED's in a box just big enough to fit the RPI and a V4.0 board, I like simple designs. (The 4th probe and the 3rd LED can be added when I feel that I need them)