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First of the new batch; And 14 more under construction....

Farnell only sells to business customers, not to individual end users like me. Also that £3.95 is excl 21% sales tax so the total price will be close to $7.50 for one connector. For me that spoils the fun a little bit.

Ralph, I had the same problem, no supplier would sell me small quantities of these connectors for a reasonable price. I buy them now via my Chinese PCB supplier, problem solved!

Johannes, The guy that printed the case for you might have a spare connector for sale! Do you only need the connector or also the SMD components?

You can find the STL and Eagle files here The Mouser project can be found here PCC-SMP-K Thermocouple connector newark S2,S3,S4,S5 tactile switches digikey

It takes about 7 1/2 hours to print a complete case, top and bottom.

The case design is ready Top; Bottom; I am currently printing 18 of these puppies for my next batch of pre-builds, this is #3; If only my printer was really this fast........

All these things will available in the very near future, but still need to finalize the design. I will also start selling DIY kits, PCB's and cases soon.

I'm using 6mm buttons with 9mm stems, no need for caps.

version 1 of the case is almost ready, there are still some rough edges but nothing that can't be fixed in a day or so. Unfortunately further work on the case will have to wait until I'm back from Saudi Arabia. Many thanks to Tom Kole for letting me use his design as a base for this case.

The new board seems to be working! I'll post some pictures tomorrow.

My experience with Tom's cases (I have printed about a dozen now) is that the nuts fit very snugly but I never have to use any excessive force or heat to push them in. In some cases I need to pull the nuts in using a 30mm screw and a washer but normally I can just push them in far enough so that...

You can count me in, at least for Europeans who need cases.

I have been playing with the board layout and I think I will go for this version; Pros; - Four individual buttons instead of the 4 way navigation switch. I can't find the SKQUAAA010 anymore for reasonable prices so 4 buttons are the way to go. - It's a combined TC and thermistor board, just...

I have used solder paste and a hot air soldering station for the smd parts, this works real easy. The vias underneath the atmega are moved closer to the center to fix some clearance issues so they didn't bother me at all while soldering. I love soldering with hot air, it is almost magic when...

Why are you starting over? Just clean you board with some isopropyl alcohol and a box of Q-tips. Buy some good quality solder like : http://www.digikey.nl/product-detail/en/SMDSW.020%204OZ/SMDSW.020%204OZ-ND/2177060 and fix all your solder joints. A good solder joint should be shiny and look...

These boards are based on the work that John Bostwick has done on his design for a SMD version of the heatermeter. John was so kind to send me his Eagle files and I used his files as the foundation of this design. The main difference is that this is a 4 thermistor version. Also the complete...

Also try to run the RPI without the HM board connected.

Check R20 (10k). This resistor pulls the reset pin (pin 1, the bottom left pin) on the Atmega up to 3.3V. It could also be that pin 6 on the RPI connector (JP1) is shorted to GND.