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I got a more accurate sketchup model for the Raspberry Pi. It looks like the blower jack and power jack aren't going to work in their current location so I moved them around a bit.

Thanks for the explanation! I guess the adjusting the power supply to meet the needs of the Pi was obvious. Check...I will try to find low-ESR smd caps. I wonder if I can find a smd version of the DC/DC converter...maybe not. I think I can squeeze it in since I am using smds for everything...

So whats wrong with the existing 5V regulator circuit? The OKI-78SR-5 costs 8+ times more than the KA7805AETU. I see you also removed what I thought was a decoupling capacitor (C6 0.1u). Is this not necessary because it is a regulated output? Oh...and you also decreased the capacitance on C4...

Got it. I notice the software reset circuit on PD7 is gone from the HeatermeterPi schematic. Can you explain how that circuit worked with the Linkmeter board and how the wiring to Pi's hardware chip select is different? Was the previous software reset used by the linkmeter to put the AVR into...

I don't see the "DO NOT BUILD" in the github. Let me know when/where you put the working version. I am going to have to find smd versions of all the components which shouldn't be hard but will be time consuming. I did buy some nice tweezers so this should be good and frustrating! I did...

I was busy (in life) and mad at the Pi so I hadn't got around to returning it. I should have because Element14/Newark immediately shipped a new one at the same time they gave me the RMA number. Glad things are going well besides you frying your board. What does this mean exactly? I am...

Told ya about those clearances I can upload my sketchup files if you want. I also have concerns with the lack of physical support for the heatermeter board on the HDMI side of the Pi. That could be mitigated if one could find a taller female pin header which would allow the board to sit on...

Awesome! I am still having issues with my board. I hope you don't run into the same problems. It seems to be some type of USB hub issue and it has been widely reported on the forums. Apparently the Raspberry Pi Foundation is looking at the issue. Hopefully most of these issues (aside from...

I usually don't lose my temper but I am getting close with this Raspberry Pi. It looks delicious and smells delicious but when you actually take a bite of the Pi it is apparent that grandma dropped something unsavory in there. I am having some serious issues with the Pi's touchy USB polyfuse (I...

You are right. Clearance is important. I have been trying to get the correct dimensions into Google Sketchup using my digital caliper. Hopefully that will help avoid clearance issues. This is an image of a general mono jack that is 5mm deep. I am not sure how deep the mono is you...

A couple conceptual images with minimal components. Is this what you were thinking Bryan? It will be pretty tight. Button might need to go on the side.

Here is a quick layout with a couple components. Red is the board outline. There is not really a great place for the button. LCD overlay...a little busy but you see the outline of the 16x2 LCD PCB.

Man this sub-forum thing confused me! I figured as much on the design approach. I have been thinking about the PCB design as well. One of the big challenges is designing something that can sit on top of this thing. The GPIO pins are lower than most of the connectors. I am assuming you will...

I get my Raspberry Pi this week! Bryan: - Are you thinking of an Arduino shield that sits on top of the Raspberry Pi communicating through the SPI? I found a Raspberry Pi library/footprint online. It would be pretty easy to redesign the existing v3.2 board to sit on top of the Raspberry...

Right...I was thinking it was the RFM12 wireless module when I couldn't burn the boot loader with my v3.1. However, Bryan indicated that his worked with his RFM12 installed. Glad you got it going!

Mach...weird! I switched USB ports and now I can burn the boot loader on my heatermeter (actually a minilink v1.1). The Minilink v1.1 is a stripped down version of the v3.2 board. The wiring for the ICSP is the same so yours should work fine. I do have a v3.1 board where I have never been...

I have the same problem burning the boot loader using v1.0. It works with the previous versions (22 or 23). I am too lazy to figure out how to fix the problem so I still use the other versions.

Bryan...I built one for my Mom and for a friend. Mom loves it...she uses it with a relay and her Bradley Electric Smoker. One suggestion she has for you...it needs an alarm. I know you started working on that...now moms asking for it! Maybe this is good justification for an android app? When...

Hi Bryan. The minilink v1.1 came out great! Only one small silkscreen issue. I am having a pretty consistent and serious problem with the lua/linkmeter server crashing while in client mode. It wont go more than 2 or three hours without.crashing. how can I troubleshoot this? It seems to...

Just be careful to check the polarity on the serial port. The wrt54g models have ground on the right. Wrt54gs models have ground on the left. These models also have 2 serial ports each. Linkmeter uses ttys1 for receiving data from the HM. On wrt54g ttys1 is on the outside header pins. On...