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Neil, as far as cost is concerned I have to give you the crappy answer of "it depends". :( There are so many variables, and given your line of work and the materials you have on hand it may be relatively inexpensive. Given that you've got a woodworking shop and a CNC on-hand I would highly...

Ralph, I think the reason we stuck with B9 was that 123Design was total crap at the time of it's release, and AFAIK it still is. That and it needs Windows 7 to run, which is a dealbreaker for me as I'm still on XP. XP4EVR! Inventor Fusion is a lot to take in, and I don't blame you for not...

Neil, I took a slightly different approach. Like Tom, I first built a Prusa i2 (bought the plastic parts, then sourced everything else myself). I learned a lot in this process, and wanted to build a second machine. In looking at the designs for machines I stumbled onto the Prism by Buback...

I was thinking the same thing. It'll be a good project to get up to speed with IF. Hopefully HM4.1 will be released soon and we can "play". :D

Could someone mirror my google drive directory and post the link to ensure that the 123D and IF files remain available? https://drive.google.com/?tab=mo&authuser=0#folders/0B6yPgtXXa9tXQks4S0NtUEZRMVE

Troy, this is the best I can do. https://itunes.apple.com/us/app/autodesk-inventor-fusion/id529580720?mt=12 I never archived a mac copy of 123DB9. :( However, Inventor Fusion will open 123D files. The problem then becomes 123D users can't open IF files. :( Perhaps we should all abandon...

OpenSCAD is great if you know EXACTLY what you want to make. It's freakin' awesome for that. For everything else it kinda sucks. :( See: http://www.onshoulders.org/2012/05/dogbot-openscad-vs-solidworks.html

Bryan, you're probably right about simply minimizing variability. Tom - I was thinking along the same lines. I'd like to move away from AL + glass and go to AL + garolite. Right now my AL bed is the weak part of my system - at 0.040" my AL bed is more of a heat spreader than anything else...

I print everything with a brim, and a few minutes with a razor knife cleans it right up. Printing on that thin garolite with ABS seems like a good solution. I ditched kapton a while back and have been using a very dilute ABS juice, which works pretty well. There is minor warping on parts that...

Nick, +- 0.35% error is pretty good. +1 for what Tom said. At this point I'd say you should start to concentrate your efforts on learning slicer and fine-tuning your speed and acceleration settings in Marlin.

Bryan, that's looking really good. Great to hear the improvements in accuracy. Video?

I don't know for certain, but the RAMPS1.4 pins that are attached to servos are all PWM pins (D4, D5, D6, D11). Better to be safe than sorry. What thickness did you order Tom? There was some discussion a while back about garolite being very warped. I think that was pretty thick stuff though.

Tom, you're right - it needs to be a PWM pin. L13=D13=PWM Extension Pin3 which is right next to GND and VCC. :D

I wonder if you couldn't insert this under the rambo board definition in pins.h, and choose appropriate pins on the expansion port? #ifdef NUM_SERVOS #define SERVO0_PIN 29 #endif and use pin 5 (PG4) on extension2? VCC and GND are right there too, which is nice. Thoughts?

Have you heated the bed and probed it?

This is with glass on top or just the bare aluminum? I wonder what it will look like with some heat in the bed.

Ultimachine.

Every. Single. Time. If there's one thing I hate it's not being able to single-source components, only to find out a week or two later that they now carry item x that I had to special order from a supplier y that has exorbitant shipping costs. :(

Anyone else back smoothieboard?

The real problem is that once you get a printer and use it for a little while, you see its flaws. The next thing you know you're printing upgrade parts. Then you're designing your own parts because the 'upgrade' parts you downloaded from thingiverse suck or don't meet your needs. It's a...