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i'll take it!

Have you tried turning down the contrast on the screen? 4.3 assembly page The 10k potentiometer needs to be turned with a small screwdriver.

try turning the brightness up.

You can do the SMD! if you can solder just follow some tips out there and you'll be able to get it done. Just be sure to get extra SMD components. They can fly away into another dimension never to be seen again. They only way to bring them back is to pay $8 shipping for another piece.

Ralph put one together that is pretty detailed. Post number 55 in this thread.

John - Thanks for confirming. Sometimes uncertainty in information at hand can be confusing! After a little thought and digging out my 4.2.4 board diagram, I figured things out. I had tied the two aux board probes into the ground side of each board probe jack. I didn't realize there were...

Here is the schematic with the switches mentioned above.

whew. Trying to dig into the HM wiring side of this thing. I've got the following wired in the setup below. HM Version 4.2.4 board with TC pit probe. 6.3 aux board with all the bells and whistles. Ethernet pin 8 ground to power jack ground. Ethernet pin 1 to probe 1 output Ethernet pin 2 to...

This ought to be a sticky thread. Or at least linked to in the adaptadamper thread. Just got the prints back from a friend and this board clicked in very nicely into the fan frame. Excited to get the fan up and in action. I've had the board soldered up for almost two years!

That's awesome. Love this. Would like to do as the next project for my heater meter. Just finished a smokey joe build so I'd like another smoker project before spring gets here! Can you share the stl files?

I'd give another power supply a shot. Seems like you have proved the servos are ok with the simple back and forth Arduino program.

I had problems with an eratic servo. Got a new one and the problems went away. I also tried a new 2 amp power supply as well. But it ended up being a junk servo.

How do the probes not get tangled up?

I had the same issue. Realized later on in the smoke that I had inadvertantly inverted my servo output. At 100% my fan was not blowing at all into the chamber.

I had a similar issue. Tried a higher amp power supply but it just ended up being a wack servo. YMMV. https://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?64496-Servo-chatter-sporadic-movements-when-changing

John - I've got the "right" button for the 4.2 standard tactile switch. The switch I bought(#3 on page 2) is different from the standard switch (#1 on page 2).

i see that now, looks more mushroomed on the OG switch. I remember I bought it back when that 4-way was starting to be obsolete... Maybe I got this as an alternate part number from somewhere or through the old googler looking for alternates that were in stock. Now the next question is where...

I've had my heatermeter for quite some time now... and never figured out how to install the button?? Either I've got some off parts or it just needs a little super glue?? 653-B32-1610 S1-CAP / B32-1610 B32-1610 Omron Switch Bezels / Switch Caps US HTS:3926909980 ECCN:EAR99 COO:JP ALPS -...

Drat. Lost one SMD .1uF cap. http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=08055E104ZAT4Avirtualkey58110000virtualkey581-08055E104Z Nooooooo.😭😭😭

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1294406 This guy he knows came up with it I think. :)