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I just got my HM and RD3 all hooked up and it looks just as sweet as I imagined it. I have a BBQ Guru adapter plate that I taped on to the front of my kamado using black foil tape. The tape can come off pretty easily, but I think it will be as permanent as it needs to be. I'll use a shop vac to...

Just wanted take a minute to dedicate a thank you thread to Bryan, John, and most of all Ralph, for creating the HeaterMeter and building up a community to support people like me that had to take some crash courses in electronics to get this thing built. I had well over 100 posts on the various...

It was definitely a bad BS170. I'm up and running!

I just placed an order for a handful from Mouser. I wouldn't call myself uber patient, but I would rather wait a few days and put in a new one instead of trying to remove the buzzer transistor. I didn't get the blower transistor off 100% clean. Part of the pin to ground broke off in the hole...

Pulled the BS170, reinstalled the ATMega with all pins firmly seated and the blower is now off. Time to order a new BS170, right?!

In order of suggested issues....... -No short to ground on pin 5 of ATMega socket -The small transistor DOES say BS170 on it -The blue and green wires were NOT in contact -ATMega pin 5 bent outward measured 0V at 0%, 1.67V at 50%, and 3.3V at 100%. I also cleaned up the cat5 jack connections...

The burnt look on the large MOSFET was just oil from my fingerprint, it wiped right off. The voltages I gave were with PULSE mode enabled. Here's a better pic of the smaller MOSFET and my brutal CAT5 jack wiring: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzSBmZGY0VqYY1ZDQlhreU82X0E/view?usp=sharing...

Just saw your 8:27 post, after posting my values. I'll review and respond.

Sorry, here are my values: Right Pin = 12.37V Middle Pin = 12.34V Left Pin = 00.48V

The right 2 pins on the MOSFET have been reading the same 12V when the output should be 0%. I thought I saw a possible solder bridge between those 2 legs, so I used a fluxed dipped solder wick to clean out between those 2 pins. I wound up fully resoldering the right pin. The fan still runs when...

Thanks Ralph, Pulse didn't stop it, I will test and report back tomorrow with pictures if need be.

I adjusted the on above to 50% and with the output reading 0%, the BLOW pin was showing 12V. I then unplugged power and checked for continuity to the surrounding pins. I don't know if there is such thing as a partial short, but on my multimeter, I have a 4 digit readout. If there is no...

I got my RD3 all put together last night and have been combing the forum for tips on these items and could use some additional guidance, please. With the RD3 on a table and a TC connected as the pit probe: 1) My fan is running non stop. I have all of the fan output values listed at 0%. The...

I flashed to Snapshot Version 20151026B. I see the on at Max only, but not the AC line filter that I read about earlier.

Thanks Ralph - I was totally on board with your last assessment. I was out earlier when I read it and have since gotten home, bridged the REFG jumper and have everything put together!!!! Now I'm trying to figure out some settings with the software as far as setting the fan to only go on after...

I'm looking for shorts and pins not lined up correctly, right? I can't see any shorts and the pin alignment on the board looks ok. It doesn't seem possible to fit a probe on the inside pins to check for continuity. Is there anything else I should be looking for or able to test on the OP Amp...

My RDTC build was successful to the point that I got a solid reading on the TC and food probes while connected to my heatermeter. Along the way, I needed to remove the potentiometer, and in doing so ripped off the top right trace. After getting my TC readings squared away, I reinstalled the...

Nailed it, thanks Ralph!

Got it, thanks Ralph! To get back to the thread topic now that I fixed my bugs, since I now have to wire the pulled up end of the 100K resitor to the empty hole as shown in this picture for the HM TC to work, can you confirm what my new switch wiring would look like given I lost the trace on...

Everything checked out with the 3.3V regulator on the RDTC. So I kept on troubleshooting. I then figured it had to be the TC amp IC. So I checked each pin as carefully as I could for shorts. I then realized that one side of the chip was not really joined at all. So I then used the wick dipped...