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I heard back from materialize and the cost is around $125 for a top and bottom. I think their quality would be better from talking with them but that price is pretty hard to swallow. Would be nice if we could find someone to work with and get a quantity discount.

I got my replacement one and it looks good. I included a picture of the two next to each other. The camera doesn't capture all the defects, but you can clearly see the differences in the vent slots. One is nice and crisp and the other looks like someone used a saw to cut them.

I've already posted above a little bit, but if you want my two cents I would avoid them. They've only printed around 6-8 cases (at least from what's been posted here) and one was most likely broke when it shipped, one they printed the wrong thing, and one they did a very poor job on (mine)...

Is that item R6? If so they appear to be in stock at Digikey.

Sounds good. It's not that big of a deal if I can't save it (except for a screenshot). I was just wondering if I was missing something.

Besides a screen shot, is there anyway that a graph from a cook can be saved? I've tried saves using IE, Chrome, and Firefox; and while Chrome and Firefox come a little closer, none work.

My bottom was named "HPi bottom R2 1 123d" (that just doesn't sound right). I was browsing around the Shapeway's forum's and it sounds like the operators "manually" select the files. I'm guessing the file names are close enough that somebody grabbed the wrong file. Sounds like their...

They didn't screw up the print, they printed the wrong thing. They took something out of my private folder and printed it for you. Here's a picture of it. The picture doesn't do justice to how poor a job of printing they did. I checked into injection molding a little, and even with a...

Looks to me like Shapeways is having a bad month. I complained to them about the case I recently received and hopefully I eventually receive a positive response from them. So far I've been getting a bit of the run around.

The case in question actually showed up today. The probe ports were moved 1 mm more into the top of the case and the opening for the selector joystick was also move 1 mm towards the display. Both adjustments seem to help. On the flip side Shapeways did a pretty poor job of printing compared...

Bryan: Out of curiosity where did you get the files for your case that you were printing? I was working on a second case and had modified one of the models in the same location where you had the overlap interference. It looks like somehow you ended up with this and I can't figure out how...

I was curious if anyone knew what the gray trend pointed to below is for? Lid open?

Image links updated. That's weird they weren't showing up. They were taken right off of TVWBB links.

Bryan. After seeing the off the shelf case in the "my stand alone heatermeter" I was thinking about the same thing that you mentioned above. Even if I can stand it up right though I'm still going to need a place to put it, so after giving it some thought I'm going to just add a shelf to my WSM...

For what it's worth, I have the case above that was done in "white strong & flexible" and I have been very pleased with the performance of the tabs. I have easily had the case open and shut a couple of dozen times and haven't had any troubles. And from what it took to remove the one post that...

Crude but effective. Once you get the hole you should be able to adapt a number of different solutions. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVb1Veh2lTk

Mine took a couple of weeks. Longer than I was expecting. This was emailed to me a few days before it shipped.

Ended up painting my white one. It helped seal up the finish a lot. Used Krylon Fusion. Not sure if I like the color or not. I was wanting to go with something lighter than black or blue, but if I was to do another one it would probably have to be blue. Too bad they're not $20 a piece...

The last two programming courses I took were Fortran and Basic. Guess my profession. Still struggling to get this going. Do I have to do anything with certificates to get this to work? Edit: OK. Got it going with my Qwest / Centurylink account. WooHoo. After doing quite a bit of...

Is my alarm-0H up above correct? Somehow I have a feeling that my general usage isn't correct.