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Or this stuff if you want really high temperature Blue Magic 18003 QuikSteel High Temperature Metal Repair Blister Card - 3 oz. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B0084AA2LK/tvwb-20 Or this stuff if you don't need such a high temperature Blue Magic 16002TRI QuikSteel Steel Reinforced...

Is there harm is closing, and maintaining the circuit closed? Not sure I ever tried holding the button to the left. If not it's as easy as having the lid open the circuit when you close it. If so, you need something that opening the lid would close the circuit momentarily and then let it open...

I've also been toying with the idea of a switch to detect the lid being open. Something as simple as a momentary contact that closes when you open the lid could be wired into the circuit. That's basically all the circuit is currently. Press the 4way to the left and it closes the circuit for lid...

I use. 9.5CFM fan on my kettle. 30-50% max and it usually doesn't need that much until the coals are almost gone.

I updated the Thingiverse files with a "turned-body-phono" and "turned-side-phono". This puts the TRRS jack on the left side, and spins the servo around. The pocket for the TRRS jack is now huge, and wiring should fit a lot better. Alas, I forgot to add printed provisions for the fan wires. And...

With my recent first working build of the FlatDamper, I got it attached to my PBC this morning. I have made a "plug" to fit in the stock PBC vent hole, that offers a 35mm male part (33.75mm Inside Diameter), for the FlatDamper to connect to. This isn't intended (for me anyway) to be the final...

This was actually already covered in the thread. I do have a set that I bought, and they are super nice. While that may be the route that I go with for myself (because I'm quality oriented, not cost) it makes sense to provide a 3D printed option for the people who might want to try the design...

So, I recently decided to get some prints made of the latest revision. I sent them to http://www.shapeways.com/, and elected to use the SLS (Selective Laser Sintering) process, in Alumide. It's a plastic with aluminum particles mixed in. Supposed melting temperature is 170ish Celsius. I was...

I found this one in my basket of electronic junk. Works for me. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B005NDTAEQ/tvwb-20

Hi everyone. I have 3 kits to assemble RDTC boards. I started the first one and got it about halfway assembled and can't be bother to screw around with the SMD parts. Would anyone be willing to solder them all up and send them back to me? Private message me and we can talk compensation...

Yeah that looks similar to what I had gotten printed. The center part will fit tight pushed down around the splines of the servo. With the ABS I had it printed in, it was tight enough to back feed the servo by turning the gear with no glue.

I haven't done any testing to figure out what's going on, but after updating to the snapshot on Saturday I had stability issues with my Heatermeter. For the first few hours of the cook everything was fine. But after maybe 5-6 hours I was unable to reach the Heatermeter. It was still monitoring...

1 3/8" is 34.92mm. I take the tubing from work, and slap it on the lathe. Turn a small amount off to make it fit the 1 3/8" hole from my step drill. The gear set that I had printed wasn't crisp. The corners were rounded on both the rack and gear part. It still worked though. I'm not sure about...

Thanks for the support everyone. Bryan - I guess it would depend on the type of plastic you're printing with as to how it handles the heat. I know ABS has a higher melting point than PLA does. I'm not sure of any of the other plastics used in printing. I connected my MicroDamper to my Kettle...

Yeah the Gear and Rack is enough to open the door fully with the normal rotation of the MG90S servo. You have to tell the heatermeter to output it to 100%, and then put the door on and tell it to close it to bring it in. I think it's actually a bit less than the full range, so you can edit the...

I designed this damper some months back, with a little input from SteveCK. My intention for it was to be small, and most importantly not stick out very far. I wanted to be able to drill a hole in the middle of the bottom of an UDS, and have it fit nicely between it and the ground without needing...

Neodymium magnets are actually amazingly strong, and have he added benefit of being a no look solution. Get it close enough and they pull it into place. Also, it looks cleaner. But you are correct in that an actual socket would be a stronger connection. Though I'm not sure how strong it really...

Where in Chicagoland are ya? I'm out west a little. Near Elgin. Http://bbq.tizzle.net/ I run a Weber kettle with Slow n Sear, Heatermeter 4.2.4 with a Microdamper assembly. That link is my current cook. Started at midnight last night. Will take it off this afternoon. My PID settings are P...

Just as a personal experience, I have ran my Heatermeter outside when it was 18*F outside. No issues. It was just under my grill cover on my table.

I have to say, you're taking this project and really doing some amazing work trying it on different setups. I look forward to seeing what you come up with as far as an all in 1 unit goes.