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Oof the numbers would be easier to read if you didn't post a 2000 pixel wide image :LOL: It's not perfect due to the line noise, but it isn't terrible either with 3 ticks peak-to-peak. 1 is normal, 2 is still fine, 4 is where I'd say you'd want to do something about it.

While I was looking at it last night I have some of the other code a pretty hard side-eye so I had another look at it this morning. Looks like I had a memory leak in the MeterMonitor software every time it wrote some letters to the displays. Apparently I was in too much of a C# mode...

I just grabbed the files from Thingiverse and can confirm that the top looks like it was saved in inches units because PrusaSlicer also complained that it was small.

Should be fixed in latest HeaterMeterClient library now. time_t changed from 32-bit to 64-bit in ESP8266 3.0.0 which then caused the ArduinoJson deserializer to want 64-bit integer support which I did not want to have enabled. Switched the type of UpdateUtc to uint32_t since it is UNIX epoch...

I'd also like to know why the latest wouldn't compile, did you get the same error about LONG LONG must be defined? And are you on a Mac? EDIT: Ah I see that the esp8266 3.0.0 core breaks the library for some reason. 2.7.4 works fine but if I update to 3.0.0 it stops compiling unless I force...

SUCCESS! WAIT A MINUTE did you find the LEDs with the decimal that were full sized or are those the minis? Oh they are the minis aren't they :( I got really excited. Nice work getting it up and running and you've passed the test (of asking me to explain everything step by step for things you...

You'll probably want to read up a little about Arduino and how it all works, but I think all you should need to do is put the required libraries in the Arduino library directory (\Users\xxx\Documents\Arduino\Libraries on windows), install the ESP8266 "board" to Arduino, select the "LONIN(WEMOS)...

Yup, just what Steve said. Use the black and red wires for power and the rest of the wires you can cut off (after you test it of course!). We don't use RPM monitoring or PWM control lines.

Oof that is a tough one because it isn't overshooting by all that much. All I can think is maybe increase the D gain, or lower fan startup max. The fan can likely be run in Voltage mode if you have a HeaterMeter that supports it (4.2 / 4.3). The last ditch effort maybe you can change the servo...

The specs on that power bank don't say if it supports the various output voltages of USB-C, and the regular ports are just going to put out 5V, which isn't enough to run a HeaterMeter unless you direct solder to the 5V lines on it. Even USB-C PD is only 5/9/15/20V which is odd they didn't...

Ah so I guess that behavior is intentional and I don't have anything to fix! See that "single parameter" is sp, and you were using the sp URI and trying to set ld with it. The single parameter URI for ld is ... ld, not sp. It would be: curl --data "value=,,1"...

The base URL is /luci/lm/api/config, you've got an extra part on there (/sp). The /sp part in the documentation is an example for GET request to just get "sp" and should be omitted from set POST requests. The first request you sent actually shouldn't work but might just work due to a bug in the...

Sorry, I didn't reply because I didn't have any additional insight. The standard blower will push more air than the microdamper one, which isn't an issue for normal size smokers generally, but an RD3 with the standard blower is a small upgrade. I don't hear much about other blower, apart from...

What that diagnostic message from the LCD is saying is that the Pit input into the ATmega is grounded (reading 00000). If it starts high then slowly drops, that's weird, I'm not sure what would cause that behavior unless the AD8495 chip is being overtaxed somehow and stops outputting current to...

Internally, all the probes use "custom" Steinhart–Hart coefficients and only the webui checks them to see if they're pretty close to one of its presets and then selects the preset instead of Custom, so that for sure wouldn't cause any issues on the HeaterMeter itself. Just verifying, when it...

The standard settings are more for no-damper operation than not, so it should just work. The fan pulls more power than our standard one does, so it stands to reason it is more powerful, so you may need to tone down some of the settings if it reacts too quickly.

The HeaterMeter definitely doesn't need a damper, we all went years without one until 3D printing came along and upped our game. It definitely does make the vent setup have a lot more wiggle room though. The blower output max is 1A, so 500mA should be fine. I'm not sure what brushless dc motor...

Yeah the pipe soldering stuff tends to be bigger, you're right. I can't read the label on the top one but I'm going to assume it is ok. Just wanted to make sure you didn't slather everything in the plumbers stuff, because that's a real recipe for disaster and causes all sorts of 👻 mystery...

I don't have any insight apart from saying that it should not do that. The only HeaterMeter I've seen that has behaved in such an unpredictable manner was due to using plumber's soldering flux during assembly, which left an invisible destructive film on the board that was eating copper and...

Yup for the next 8 or so cases ordered in "clear" it will be this filament, which is to say for the next 6 months or so. :D