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I wouldn't worry about the chattering, I have been using the same mini servo for a couple years and it is still working. It is a little annoying as it can be heard when sitting on deck having a beer and cigar enjoying the afternoon. I also do R/C helicopters and airplanes and these servos will...

Don't know how pricing is up in Canada. That side table is $66 new from Weber and the catch pan holder looks shot so there is another $20. I've purchased three used Genny's here in the states and paid between $50 and $75 for them and they had all the parts and good solid frames (no side...

I had one with rust just like yours. I welded in a new piece but like your fix better as I am a bad welder. Great, easy fix anyone can do!

Whoops, sorry. Should have kept my mouth shut. But if it broke off that easily probably nothing would have saved it. I think the problem with drilling them out is the screw is harder than surrounding aluminum casting. hopefully the screw is corroded so much it will drill out easily.

Well, since you haven't tried yet, give it a try. I have rebuilt 4 of these grills now and they have always come out OK for me and they all looked like yours. I would not apply enough pressure to possibly break them off as from others who have broken them off it is a major problem. I would...

Warning to Noobies! Building a heatermeter may lead to having to buy a 3D printer then having to learn CAD software so as to reinvent the wheel and devise your own air controller! :) :(

That has been done before. The problem is that desoldering is a bear especially for a multi pin component such as this. I know there are a couple threads about attempted corrections and I don't think they were successful. Hopefully somebody that was able to do this will chime in. But since...

Looks good but it appears in picture your 28 pin socket is reversed. The notch should be on bottom to match printing on board. No problem, just be sure to install atmega to match board not the socket now.

Just thought I'd let you know how your TC amp is being used out there. This is a v5 in a case I printed up. I plug it into a cat5 cable I have run to my deck and snap it on a leg of the BGE with the glued on magnet. The extra jack is for a cat5 jumper to my blower/servo. Works perfect...

Well, I'll chime in here as I was a complete novice at electronics and soldering. I have built two 4.0's and a 4.2 with SMC. The hardest part of the Through the hole components is getting them in correct location and correct orientation. The soldering is a breeze after watching a couple...

Tried to swap out part but burned/pulled pads off. Built new board this morning with correct 777 op amp and works perfect. Good job guys! Thanks.

Thanks. I do have the old opamp installed but also have the 777 here. I ordered parts at two different times and didn't notice the change, will attempt to swap them out. Sounds like that should do it as my temp above 300 also. Thanks again.

Hi John, Just built a version 5 TC Amp and have a question on the 2 sets of jumper pads. I installed all components so assume by what is written above I don't jumper the 3.3v pads, the others say something about reference ground I believe. I'm not sure by what is written above when you jumper...

That M2 is an amazing looking printer. I just finished a Makerfarm 10 inch I3V and have been getting great results right from the start but I only got the printer for fun. Wish I had a good reason to justify an M2!

Mine sits on an end table beside my Lazy Boy in the house. It is connected to my Blower/Servo and probes by a Cat5 cable. I live in the cold and snowy north so I don't know if it's worth it to you in NC. But rain,sleet and snow is no issue for me. [/URL][/IMG]

Thanks John! That will help a lot. Since I had to buy 3 boards I bought 3 sets of components. Think I will only build one 3.4 and save components for newer versions! Thanks for all your efforts on this, it is really fun to build this stuff.

OK, I can see I'm not making myself clear at all! Not your fault! But if you look at 3.4 board there are 5 PADS. They should be 12v, 5v servo signal and (2?) grounds, one each for blower and servo (yes I know they are the same ground 4.1 and later). I AM NOT asking ANYTHING about the Cat5...

Maybe I have it all wrong and the TC amp board doesn't have connections for blower/servo. I just assumed for some reason those pads were servo/blower connections from incoming Cat5! If that's the case, sorry for my ignorance!

Thanks Ralph, I did see that. My question is on the 5 pads on the TC board which go to the servo and blower. My understanding is that the cat 5 jack on the TC board will connect to my HM. I need to add another cat 5 jack to TC amp to connect my servo and blower as I already have it wired with...

Hi John, I have 3 of your 3.4 TC Amp boards coming tomorrow I will use with my much modified HM 4.0. I may have missed it but is there a drawing somewhere that lists which of the 5 pads for servo/blower are which? I need to run them to a cat5 jack then use jumper cable to blower as that is...