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What is the recommended material to print a microdamper with? Will PLA do, or do I need to use a more exotic plastic like ABS?:cool:

Just have a look over here.

First impressions are positive, very positive..... :D http://217.121.196.106:9090/cgi-bin/luci

Just wiped the SD card and re-flashed the image. At first everything worked fine but after a power cycle the same issue appeared again (frozen display and leds). When I do a "Reboot AVR" from the config menu, the HM display and the leds start working again. Looks like something goes wrong...

I might be doing something wrong but with the latest image the display and the gr/ye leds keep freezing a few seconds after the RPI3 starts booting. The SD card was wiped before I wrote the image to the card. Everything else seems to be working OK.

Thanks Bryan, glad it was a bug and not my soldering skills. :cool:

I might have found a small bug. Just finished building 6 SMD heatermeters. All 6 programmed just fine on a RPI3, but when the backlight switches on the dispays only show the 16 black squares. All 6 work normal after a power cycle.

According to the spec sheet the 328p requires a voltage between 1.8 and 5.5V. 5V Should work just fine.

Hmmm, €24 sounds like a little bit too much. I've send you a PM.

Why would you go through all the trouble to modify an Ikea Fantast probe when Maverick ET72 are readily available for an affordable price?

Good to know, I haven't tried that yet but it would bring back the fallback IP address. Seems like a better option than to disable eth0.

I have to change the ethernet port from static to unmanaged mode to be able to use the wifi in client mode. This disables the lan port.

This means that the SPI interface is working and that the Atmega is programmed. The display of the heatermeter should now work and show some text. If the RPI still doesn't communicate with the HM board then there's probably something wrong with either the TX or the RX signal (or both). These...

Some pictures of the 6.1.2 board; And yes it works with a RPI3! The Eagle and gerber files can be found here The STL files for the case (TC and 4Probe) can be found here Link to the Mouser project . STL files for the LED spacers, a CPU allignment jig and a button allignment jig.

Haven't tried that but I guess that it wouldn't make much of a difference. The only noise that I measure at the 3.3V line comes from the 5V regulator. For my next batch I will order some very low ESR 100uF capacitors from Mouser to see if that makes any difference.

The left screw could touch the groundplane of the RPI but there is a 4mm clearance. The clearance of the right screw is 14mm. So far this hasn't caused any problems but it would be possible to move both keyholes 5mm to the sides of the case and 2mm up. Then wouldn't be any chance of the screws...

The main object of the new PCB design was to improve the layout of the 12V, 5V and 3.3V power components. The old design was some what awkwardly designed and caused a noisy 3.3V supply that was a main cause of thermocouple noise. The components are slightly moved around to make sure that the...

This is the reason I have designed my version of the HM case with semi closed keyholes that can be easily cut out with a sharp utility knife if needed. Most people will probably leave then closed, but they be opened and used if needed. The thin skin covering the keyhole is only 3 layers thick...

Yes it is, 192.168.1.1 is my router so I changed the static IP address of ETH0 to 192.168.1.90. I haven't tried to change the LAN port to DHCP, I'll test that today.

Did a 5 hr cook today with the RPI3 heatermeter (Aug 31 snapshot) and it worked fine. The only issue so far is that to be able to setup the wifi as a static client I need to completely disable ETH0 (switch to unmanaged mode) before I can access the web interface. I don't know if this is a...