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The issue is the new version of the Pi Zero W(h) already has the pins soldered in. I will attempt to simply clip them. If that fails, I guess I will need to move the BS170 as that should be easier than desoldering the header.

Thanks, If clipping pins is an option, that will be the quickest and easiet approach.

I want to ditch the edimax interfaces and was considering switching my 4.2 HM to use a pi zero w. I can get a wh version with the headers in place cheaper and faster than the plain version where I will have to solder on the first 26 pins. My question is how bad is the physical interference...

You can only effectively use a controller with charcoal. Charcoal smokers run with excess fuel and restricted air. Controlling the amount of air controls the burn rate and the temperature. Stick burning offsets run with excess air and temperature is controlled by managing the amount of fuel...

Make sure you plugged it into the correct RJ45 port on the HM and not the Ethernet port. Next try a different cable.

I also use a RD3 on a ceramic kamado style grill. I have mine setup to start with the damper fully closed at 0 and slowly ramp up until the damper is fully open around 90%. From 90% to 100%, the Heatermeter will turn on the fan and ramp up the fan speed. A ceramic grill is too efficient to...

There is a lot of flexibility. I have mine setup to use the servo to control how much air it gets, unless that is not enough. If the servo is full open and it needs more, the fan kicks on and ramps up. You can set them up to overlap. You can set the servo to just open and close and have the...

You don't "need" to get the briquetts white to cook on them, but they give off an unpleasant tasting white smoke until they are charred over. For a hot cook, it is easy to get them all lit and wait until the smoke cleans up. For a low and slow cook using a snake or minion or related method...

You could write a basic script to change the setpoint very high and then very low for x and y minutes.

So, I am going to stick with my thought that this is not really a problem, but the solution is already in the software. I tested full shutdown on my grill last night. After 40 minutes of total shut down, there was enough latent heat in the charcoal to reignite. I think you need to way way...

Have you actually experienced this problem? I find it is actually quite hard to fully extinguish the charcoal to the point it won't come back. It shouldn't happen in the time it takes to recover from a 10-20 degree overshoot.

The HM already has the ability to save (archive) the data. You could write something to run local to archive the cook and then send the file to the server. That would not cover live cooks, but it should be fairly simple to do.

To display the live cook, just provide a link to the user's HeaterMeter whenever you see that it is active.

For the long distance one, you will want one RDTC board. You can see pictures and the assembly here: http://tvwbb.com/showthread.php?57901-Heatermeter-Aux-Thermocouple-And-two-probe-board-V6-1(Final-Version)/page6 It has an Ethernet jack that connects back to the Heater Meter. One K type and...

If you just want a blower with servo, you don't need the extra board. If you want the blower/servo unit to have a remote pit probe and two meat probes, all connected through one ethernet cable up to 50 feet long, you do need the additional board. Note that when using the remote probes, the pit...

You should be able to get a new fan for less than $10.

Thermocouple probes are available that can handle much much higher temps than the meat probes that are available, and the thermocouple probes are much cheaper. The ones I use are good to 1300 F and cost $2 or less when ordering 5 packs from ebay. The high temp rating is important for higher...

True. I should probably just make that execute any time they are not equal, although I don't see myself changing set points by less than 15-20 degrees very often. I tend to think about cooking temps in 25 degree increments. Did we lose Benjamin?

After playing with this a bit, I found that the probe 0 temp from my thermocouples fluctuates a lot more at higher temps so I modified this to make the alarms +/- 7.5% so 15* at 200, 45* at 600. I am also resetting after a 10 degree change in SP. I am sure there is a better way to handle the...

Hah! I didn't even see that little check box floating up there! Well, that certainly makes it easier. Thanks for the tip on the exit 1. I didn't realize the script ran before the notification was sent, but that does make sense.