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Steve, thanks for that link.

IMHO, For the WSM I would recommend the adapt a damper. The micro damper works, but the fan is barely enough. It was designed more for the insulated grills like kamodo.

If you support the leg with a pair of thin needle needle nose (so pressure is not applied to plastic) and the either a second set of pliers or a socket or thin tube to bend the lead you will be less likely to break.

Ha, such a relatable comment.

Try lowering the fan max (start with 60%). I would guess the fire gets stoked up too much. Also sealing any leaks helps. What type of smoker, and how is the blower/servo attached?

If you examine the schematic for the JP1 header, there are several unconnected pins (I count 12), and those could be omitted. https://heatermeter.com/devel/pcb/hm-4.2/HeaterMeterPi.png

You have to figure out who the underlying carrier is for your consumer cellular. Then try to email that from your phone or computer to make sure it works. It should be either att or T-Mobile.

Looks like a pretty complete list for starters. You actually need the "WH" version of the Pi zero or you need.to buy the header and solder it yourself. The Pi mounts to the heatermeter board using header. Many people also use servo operated dampers, like the adapt-a-damper in the sticky, but it...

Looks to me like your wireless connection is never established. Are you sure the settings are correct? Maybe reconfigure the SSID and password. You also imply it is not visible from the router. Also and setting a static IP in your router is the way to go, as mentioned above once you get the wifi...

Could it be you are mixing grounded and ungrounded probes?

Great!

Oooh, fancy!

Check that you have the correct part installed for 3.3v regulator IC4 as it looks just like one of the mosfets.

The stock 6.5 CFM fan is more than enough if it is not tool restricted. May need a larger opening? If you power the fan with 12v on the bench, you will see it has adequate airflow. If you want to go the two fan route, I think it could handle two wired in parallel since they are only 0.23A each...

Congrats, looks pretty cool.

Those are some pretty great directions Ralph. Thanks for taking the time to put them together, I may build one someday.

Start by checking voltages at the power pins using this as a guide https://heatermeter.com/devel/pcb/hm-4.3/HeaterMeter434BaseV.png

Well, rules that out. I am no expert in this just looking at the schematic and guessing. You already tried swapping Atmega so that's not it. Perhaps check all the power inputs to Atmega, pins 7, 20, and Aref pin 21. Also check voltage at all analog input pins 23-28 just to make sure they are not...

Since all the adc readings are changing but low and you have the 5v going to the buttons, could you have a wrong resistor or bad solder on the 1k resistor R1 on the baseboard. This makes a voltage divider with the pressed button that sets input voltage to pin 23. What is voltage at R1 for each...

Thanks for the design.