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Golly, love to see graphs like that, especially after such a rough start!

Yeah they're available as the "Clear" option in the store's "Case for HeaterMeter" page. I can't guarantee the clarity of the finished print though. It is definitely clearer than all the other PETG I've been using but it still isn't that nice polished clear, especially on the vertical surfaces...

I saw something similar when I had mine up and running all day recently, it would lose connection to the HeaterMeter and reconnect a bunch, then work for a while and reconnect a bunch. I think something is happening on the HeaterMeter (linkmeterd) side because sometimes even the webui becomes...

It is maybe slightly stringier than my best PETG but less than some others. I had no problems without changing any slicer parameters.

Of course I just complained about how nobody makes a really clear PETG and yesterday I had the first print with a new brand, "Dikale". It's definitely the clearest clear I've ever seen, compared to an old misprint Overture brand one. The overture looks like every other brand I've tried, but this...

Looks great! I also find it to be a great help to be able to see the Pi LEDs through the case-- is anything happening in there?! I do wish "clear" came out more clear. I've tried all sorts of layer heights and temperatures and still can't get anything but somewhat translucent white. That's why...

haha doh! That's awesome that you figured it out. You did it right the first time, I would have never considered that would have been a problem. I've definitely started doing that once myself 😳

Nice work! Yeah unfortunately putting the these 74 series chips in backwards tends to be instant death for them.

I wouldn't try switching to a more expensive Pi to try to fix the problem, you'll just burn more money if it burns out. There shouldn't be any flickering in the LEDs in normal operation. I'd try to figure out what is causing that first, but even with a multimeter you might have a hard time...

Looks flippin' awesome, and that temperature is holding nice and steady. Success all around!

Oh then that is one of the Adafruit ones and should theoretically be among the best of the plastic-geared servos. I've only been using them for 4 or 5 months though so I can't say that with 100% confidence yet, but it should be good.

No the MG90 and SG92Rs from the store (from Adafruit) are different sizes. The MG90 is different from most of the other plastic-geared 9g servos and need the hole to be designed for them whereas most the plastic ones are pretty close. I've gone through several different brands from generic SG90...

Yeah the problem that some people experience is that the servo just flips the fudge out due to the 5V voltage dropping a little when it starts to move the servo, the capacitor adds just enough of a buffer that it prevents that. I'm really not sure it will do much for a servo that's just buzzing...

Yup just like WBegg demonstrated. It just needs to be virtually any capacitor, 0.1uF to 470uF of at least 10V rating. This specifically targets where the servo actually freaks out and goes full open / closed randomly, but it doesn't hurt to have it even if you're not experiencing that behavior...

The text you're seeing is probably from the browser cache, because the first page is just a redirect to the main home page (which explicitly isn't cacheable). Sounds like your heatermeter has gone off wifi, or your browser isn't on the same network (mobile vs wifi), and you just can't connect...

Usually if it is sitting there buzzing it means it is stuck and isn't getting enough current to move. Make sure there isn't any stickiness at all on the mating faces of the damper, sometimes buffing each of them with a soft cloth for a minute can remove any surface residue form the 3D printing...

You might also try setting the damper "fully open at" to 50% and the fan's "on above" to 50%, which makes the damper open fully before the fan comes on. That makes the fan more effective since it only runs when airflow is not restricted, and the time when it doesn't need it more gentle by only...

Hey Tom, sorry about the slow reply but I've been on other projects this week. 1. The assembled HeaterMeter covers all the soldering of the device itself. You can just plug in a Pi 3B, micro SD, and power supply and it will be up and running. The Pi Zero W does not come with the headers...

Wow. Nothin' wrong with that!

Sorry I am a little late to the party, but when I've done battery-based cooks I just use 2.1mm barrel jack alligator clips and an old UPS battery like this and will run for [a couple] days. 12V lead-acid battery voltage is perfect for running HeaterMeter straight from the lugs, although the...